Australian Stitches – August 2019

seamline.Wedonotalterthecentre
frontandbackseamlines,asthese
shouldremainstraightsothatthe
pattern piece grainline is not altered.
See diagram 6.

If you need to add more than 1.5cm
(^5 / 8 in) to each hipline seam, you
should use the ‘box-and-slide’ method
to adjust your pattern. This method
allows you to add in a greater amount
of ease with less pattern distortion.
Simply box out the area to be adjusted,
slide out then blend in the outer edges
of the box to the original seams of
the pattern. More than one box can
be used to add greater amounts of
adjustment. See diagrams 7 and 8.

TheSwayback:Thereis a high

probabilitythehourglassfigurewill

havea swaybackcurve.Thisis repaired

by slashing into the centre-back seam

of the paper pattern below the waistline

curve, creating a pivot point at the

side seam. The upper pattern section

of the cut is moved downwards by the

required amount (generally between

1cm and 2cm [^3 / 8 in and ¾in]) to

eliminate the ‘swayback buckle’ without

changing the waistline shape. It is

always important to move the upper

piece downwards to avoid changing

the grainline of the bottom section of

the garment. The soft fullness at the

waist or the ‘soft square’ waist suitability

camoufl ages the presence of a swayback

curve. See diagram 9.

Diagram 4 – Adjusting the bustline by a maximum of 1.5cm Diagram 5 – Reducing the width of the waist

Diagram 6 – Minor hipline adjustment Diagram 7 – Box-and-slide technique for

large adjustments

Diagram 8 – Multiple box-and-slide

adjustments for larger adjustments.

Diagram 9 – Swayback adjustment.

1 – 2cm (^3 / 8 – ¾in)

1 –

2cm

(^3 /^8 –

¾in)

Hinge

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