20 JEWELS & TIME 2019/20
the Ref. 2512/1, which went under the hammer at Sotheby’s
for US$962,500 in 2012. Perhaps, it is not mere coincidence
that the reference name of the new watch is an anagram of
the Ref. 2512. There are subtle design parallels between the
two, though limited mostly to the case—both references
have two-tiered lugs and a two-tiered case, as well as a boxed
sapphire crystal. Unlike the yellow gold Ref 2512/1, however,
the case of the Ref 5212A-001 is made from stainless steel—it
is the only Calatrava in Patek Philippe’s regular collection to
be made in steel. The material is typically reserved for sporty
Nautiluses and limited editions.
All of the aforementioned elements have been crafted and
engineered to perfection—or as close to perfection as human
hands can accomplish. With handiwork, every piece is unique
and that is what makes the Weekly Calendar Ref 5212A-001
so special. And you can see it on the fi rst look at the watch.
Each of the letters and numbers on the dial
(aside from the usual Patek Philippe Geneva
logo, the Swiss-made branding and the date
aperture) is written by hand—the hand of
a designer in the manufacture, to be more
precise though Patek Philippe has kept the
name of the said designer a secret.
The handwritten numerals and letters
add a touch of quirkiness that has never
quite been seen before in Patek Philippe’s
watches—this is the fi rst time it has ever
used hand-lettering in its dial design. Unlike
typography, each handwritten letter and number is just
slightly different. The imperfection of the writing, however,
is what makes the Ref 5212A-001 so unusual—it presents a
touch of whimsy that is very rare in Patek Philippe’s oeuvre.
Perhaps this is the watchmaker’s attempt to introduce
an element of informality in its round dress watches, in a
way that is different from that conveyed by the sportiness
of the Nautilus or Aquanaut. More importantly, it serves as
an indication of how it is created by the skilled hands of its
artisans, who put their heart and soul into its making—the
very quality that makes it truly one-of-a-kind.IN THE DETAILS
The side profi le of
the Patek Philippe
Calatrava Weekly
Calendar Ref
5212A-001 reveals a
two-tiered case and
two-tiered lugs; a
closer look at the dial
and the numerals on
the date ring on calibre
26-330 S C J SE
reveals handwritten
letters and numbersSPOTLIGHT