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O
f Italy’s distinct regions,
Emilia-Romagna lays most
claim to being the country’s
gastronomic heartland. As well
as the increasingly popular
cities of Bologna, Modena and Parma – each
famed for its culinary culture and produce- there are a number of smaller cities and
towns that are putting the spotlight on their
own cooking traditions.
But although food is arguably the main
draw with any trip to the Azure Isle, this
north Italian region also offers a diversity
of cultural heritage – from film to art and
architecture.
After landing in Bologna, head an hour
and a half south along the coast towards
Santarcangelo di Romagna, a quaint town
with cobbled streets and a bustling market.
Situated just outside the town in a beautifully
rustic part of the countryside is Collina Dei
Poeti: a small hotel set among olive groves
and vineyards, from which extra virgin olive
oils and full-bodied Sangiovese wines are
produced. Ask to participate in a cooking
class with a pair of true Italian nonnas who
will passionately (and patiently) teach you the
art of making piadina bread and tagliatelle
by hand – before your work is served to you
beneath a rich, slow-cooked wild boar ragu.
A short drive will take you to Ravenna, a
historic city home to eight early Christian
monuments recognised as UNESCO World
Heritage Sites. These feature innumerable
intricate mosaics painstakingly created over
many years, depicting religious imagery –
and must be seen to be believed. The mosaic
tradition still exists today, with many local
artisans keeping the craft alive in workshops
throughout the city.
Before heading out of town, stop by Corte
Cabiria for a bite to eat. This secluded
restaurant serves elevated Italian dishes such
as turbot, vegetable caponata, beetroot sauce
and bergamot in a bright dining room or
minuscule courtyard.
Next stop is the ancient city of Rimini;
and the preferred place to stay is still The
Grand Hotel Rimini – the best and most
luxurious hotel in town with its Liberty-stylefaçade, marble f loors, 18th-century furniture
and Murano glass chandeliers. The rooms
ooze romance, with a decidedly old-school
aesthetic; balconies look out across the hotel’s
manicured gardens towards the nearby
beach. This hotel was a favourite of legendary
Italian filmmaker Federico Fellini, who was
born and raised in Rimini and immortalised
the hotel in his 1973 movie, Amarcord; and
guests can even stay in the same suite that
the director resided in. Soak up la dolce vita
on the hotel’s terrace, negroni in hand.
From here, it’s a cinch to see the sights
of the city. Ancient structures such as the
Arch of Augustus and the Tiberius Bridge sit
alongside Plaza Cavour’s recently renovated
Teatro Galli; sugar cube-white churches; and
the red velvet and gilded art nouveau Cinema
Fulgor – where the young Fellini fell in love
with film and art, drawing the actors and
actresses in his caricaturist style.
Wander through the charming Borgo San
Giuliano, the clay and pastel-toned district
where Fellini grew up, and look out for the
numerous murals dedicated to the auteur and
his films before ordering homely dishes at
neighbourhood hotspot La Mi Mama.
For a slight change of pace, make the
journey to the medieval village of Pennabilli,
set in the dramatic, rolling hills and peaks
of the Montefeltro countryside. It’s a fairly
sleepy town, so you might not expect to find
a Michelin-starred restaurant here; but Il
Piastrino is recognised by the food bible, and
serves fantastic value inventive dishes with
both Italian and wider European inf luences,
within a renovated farmhouse.
It’s a short drive to the hilltop town of
Sant’Agata Feltria – located between the
valleys of the Savio and Marecchia rivers.
Aside from its scenic beauty, the town is
known for hosting an annual truff le fair
for the past three decades. Every Sunday in
October, thousands of food lovers descend
on the town to wander the cobbled streets
and sample produce – including the region’s
famous white truff les – from hundreds of
stalls. Here, truff le is found in everything –
from pasta to bread to beer. If you’re lucky,
you might find a truff le hunter and his dog to
show you how they’re unearthed.
If you haven’t spoiled your appetite with
tasters, then head for lunch at Il Tulipano
Nero – a no-frills but excellent establishment
serving pasta dishes to die for – many, of
course, loaded with “white gold”.MT Aug19 54-55 travel italy.indd 55 30/07/2019 11:39