Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist – September 2019

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LIQUE À JOUR is a miniature

stained-glass window, which

is why plique à jour jewelry

is made with transparent enamels.

The enamel is suspended in a metal

framework instead of setting on top

of the metal like cloisonné. I wanted

a plique à jour pendant but I don’t

wear white blouses, so the trans-

parent enamel wouldn’t work. I used

opaque enamels so the colors show.

Don’t get upset with me — we’re

artists, so we’re allowed to break the

rules! Besides, when you see what

the transparent enamels looked like

in photo 5, you will agree with me.

DESIGN

Every article or book that you read

or every person you talk with will

have diff erent ideas about how to

make plique à jour. Here are the

design rules I use — well, most of the

time:

Use 16-gauge fi ne silver, 80 mesh,

medium temperature enamel.

I try to keep the outside edge about

⅛" wide and the interior lines 1⁄16"

wide.

The little “cells” that hold the glass

vary in size but are usually no wider

than ⅛", and I try to keep their length

no longer than ⅜".

PREPARE THE PATTERN

1

Draw your design to size. Glue it

onto the 16-gauge fi ne silver. While

the pattern is drying, decide on your

enamel colors. I usually make several

sketches and try diff erent colors

before I choose. I used Butter Yellow

for the fl ower petals, Woodrow

Brown for the fl ower centers, Jungle

Green for the leaves, Butter Yellow

for the accents in the centers, and

Cantaloupe orange and Woodrow

Red for the accents in the petals.

MAKE THE PLIQUE À JOUR

FORM

2

Once the pattern is dry, you can

saw the outer shape. Clean the

outer edge with the fl at needle fi le. Use

a center punch to make a divot in each

cell. I use a #65 drill bit to drill each

hole. Insert the #3 saw blade through a

hole and tension the blade again. Keep

the blade vertical and remove the

Learn plique à jour enameling as you make this colorful

pendant By Peggy Haupt

Coming Up

Daisies

123

4

5

76 LAPIDARY JOURNAL JEWELRY ARTIST