MARYQUANT
JennyLister,V&APublications,$59.99BeforeMaryQuantburstuponthe
British,andsubsequentlyglobal
fashionscene,inthe1960swomenin
their20sdressedliketheirmothersin
twin-sets,pearlsandtweedskirts.
Quant’sclotheswerearchitectural,
mostlyinneutralnaturalfabrics,
althoughsheusedshinyblackPVCwith
greatpanache.Asshesaidherself,
thesestarkcreations“werecuriously
feminine”.Alongwitha fewother
mavericksontheKingsRoad,Chelsea,
sheinventedtheminiskirt.Her
co-creatorofanentirelynewbreedof
womenwasVidalSasson,thebrutalist
hairdresserwhocouldmakeeventhe
mostwinsomemodellookasifshewas
staring out from under the blade ofa guillotine.Herfamewashelpedby
peppyinterviews.ShetoldThe
Guardianthatshedyedherpubichair
greenandherhusbandtrimmeditwith
nailscissorsintotheshapeofa heart.
AyearagoLondon’sVictoriaand
AlbertMuseumsentouta callfor
survivingQuantoriginals.They
showedthecollectionthisyearand
includedaccessories,homewaresand
hersignaturebrandofcosmetics.Mary
Quantgaveusa lookthatboththrilled
andintimidatedmen.Adecadelater
GermaineGreerprovidedthesolid
argumentsforwhyweshouldstop
wantingtobelikeladies.Lister’s
bookisaboutthechangeswroughtby
clothesalone.In 2015 theQueenmade
the85-year-oldrebela Dameand
apparently Quant was well chuffed.WORKING
RobertA.Caro,BodleyHead,$49.99ThesecretofmanagingChristmas,
budget wise, is to start buying presentsearlyon.I’vepickedthisoneforyour
mostintellectualfriend,orfor
a journalist.Caroisa historian.
Whenhewasunabletofinishhisfirst
commissionedbiographyintime,his
wifeInasoldtheirhousesotheycould
affordtocarryon.Inthefullnessof
timeCarofoundanagentwhoswitched
himtoa publisherwhogivesCaroall
thetimehewants.Hisfive-volume
biographyofLBJ,TheYearsofLyndon
Johnson, hastaken 40 yearsandthe
lastvolumeisstillgestating.Carois
83.Hetooktimeofftowriteandcurate
thiscollectionofpiecesabouthowhe
works.Everyjournalistknowsthe
agonyofgoingtopresswiththejuiciest
morselstillunverifiedandtherefore
omitted.Inthebadolddaysreaders
knewwhena reporterwasjoiningup
thedots.Thesedaysyoucangotogaol
forjusta whiffofbraggadocio.Carois
extreeeeeeeme. Tobecertainhe’dgot
LBJ’searlyyearsright,heandthe
ever-obligingInawenttoliveforthree
years in the middle of nowhere, closeBOOK CLUB
A SUMPTUOUSSPREADTHISMONTH—TRYTOCLEARSOMETIMEAWAYFROMTHE
USUALHOUSEHOLDDEMANDS TO DO JUSTICE TO THESE DEEPLY SATISFYING AUTHORS.
REVIEWSANNABEL LAWSON