Elle UK – September 2019

(Wang) #1
ELLE.COM/UK September 2O19

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military-inspiredcoat.

77

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Givenchy

Givenchy
Givenchy

Gucci

Louis
Vuitton

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Givenchy


JW

Anderson

LouisVuitton

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by

Hedi

Slimane

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TheREFERENCES...


ELLEMood Board

There are plenty of reasons to think we’ve been thrown back into the early
2OOOs: Paris Hilton and Kim Kardashian in chain-mail minidressesin
the music video for Hilton’s single B.F. A. (Best Friend’s Ass). Samantha
Mumba releasing new music and Westlife on a comeback tour. Ann
Widdecombe returning to politics. That, and satin cowl-necks, dinky
It bags and cutaway tops on the AW19 catwalks. Fashion lovesa
trip into the past, and early 2OOOs style is the latest addition tothe
runway’s increasingly eclectic mix of throwback looks. Those 2O -year-
old pieces join turn-of-the-century frock coats, 198Os tailoring and
all sorts from decades past to create this distinct
‘anything goes’ approach to dressing.
At Givenchy, Gucci and more, vintage-inspired
pieces formed the foundations of looks that
packed a contemporary punch. Designers used
‘wonky’ layering, mixing everything from clashing
prints to acid-wash denim, and went heavy on
accessories, to drive old-school ideas into 2O19.
‘It’s about throwing on a vintage or attic find with
something like a punky boot or a leather jogging-
pant,’ Clare Waight Keller told us backstage at
her show in March, explaining her approach to Givenchy’s AW19
collection. ‘It’s the mix of the two elements together that felt fresh to me.’
At his namesake label, Jonathan Anderson echoed the sentiment
of building on retro styles, adding chain-link chokers, door-knocker
brooches and trompe l’oeil marabou for a modern update. ‘The trousers
are based on Oxford-bag [styles] from the 192Os. It was nice to pull
pieces out and reinterpret them for now. It creates an awkward elegance,
which I think is like Britain. Everything’s a little awkward,’ he laughed.
The old maxim that ‘everything old is new again’ seems more
significant when you consider that the wave of vintage-inspired

Yves Saint
Laurent, 1969

Celine by
Hedi Slimane
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