50
makirollsonoffer,alongsideavarietyofsaladsand
vegetabledishesseasonedwithsesame,misoand
wasabidressing.Muchtomydelight,bothTasmanian
oystersandJapanese-stylefriedchickenareupfor
grabs,ensuringthatKosaten’skitchenpleasesthe
crowdsaswellassatisfyingaworldlypalate.
It’sworthnotingthat,inkeepingwiththespace’s
next-genvibe,myorderarrivesatlightningspeed.
Presentationisminimalbutprecise,andstand-outs
includethepumpkinagedashitofu,asweetertwist
onthetraditionaldish,toppedwithtoastedpumpkin
seeds;thekingfishsashimi,whichthankfullyisn’t
overdressed;andthepan-lickedtunatataki.Playful
touchessuchassparklingShoChikuBaisake–think
ofJapan’stakeontheclassicalcopop–andPocky
biscuitsservedwithdessertsmakeforanevening
that’sasmuchaboutentertainmentasitisrefuelling.
Ofallthedishes,it’sthematchatiramisuthat
socloselyencapsulatesthejoytobefoundinthe
Japaneseapproximationofanotherwiseforeign
dish.PartHokkaidocheesetart,partumamisponge,
it’sneithergreen-teasweetnorVenetiandessert,
butmakesforafittingendtomydesignatedsitting
(barseatscomewitha90-minutetimer).
Onmanylevels,Kosatendeliversonitspromises:
hyperspeedservice,tastyTokyo-inspiredbites,and
alight-heartedapproachtodining.Butwhereit
fallsdownisinthewarmthandguidancethatcomes
withone-on-onehospitality.Ifyou’rehuntingfor
somethingfreshandimmediatewithinLaunceston’s
centralgrid,it’scertainlyworthbooking,butbe
preparedtohaveyourappetitesatisfiedswiftly,
thenheadtoalocalcraftbeerhauntandembrace
theneighbouringtraditionalists.DETAILS
KOSATEN
254 CharlesStreet,
Launceston,Tas;
kosaten.com.au
Verdict:A sliceof stylish
Japanesecuisinethatsuits
bothconnoisseursand
novicesalike.A fantastic
pickforexpressdining
beforeexploringnightlife
offerings,andforgroup
gatheringsin a unique,
contemporarysetting.
Score:
Werated:Thetunatataki,
servedwithpaper-thin
whiteradishslicesand
a delicateyuzuponzu
dressing,andtheambient
videoartwork– visually
compellingwithout
beingdistracting.
We’dchange:Thetable-
mountediPads,which
preventyoufromgetting
cosywithyourdining
partnerif youoptfor
thecarouselexperience.
Notes:Openforlunch
anddinner,11am–3pm
and5pm–9pm,six
daysperweek(closed
Sundays).Bookings
recommendedat
weekendsorforprivate
diningspaces.YOU COULDBEFORGIVENforsuspectingthat
tipping LauncestonasAustralia’stopup-and-coming
destination wasasure-firesignthatIwaslosingmy
edge. But withitsstunningnaturalsurroundsand
growing culinaryandnightlifescenes,theTasmanian
city is fast becomingonetowatch.Idroppedinto
Japanese restaurantKosaten,whichopenedlastyear,
on a buzzing Fridaynight,withthehopethatthe
marriage of TassieseafoodandTokyostylewouldbe
something worthwritinghomeabout.
From the outside,Kosatenappearsunassuming.
Similar to itssistervenueinHobart,theLaunceston
chapter borrowsdirectlyfromtheneon-tingedstreets
of Shibuya, Tokyo’scoolestsuburb.Thebuilding
was previouslyapowertoolssupplier,howeverits
revamped interiornowhumswithcolour,fusing
Japanese popinfluenceswithindustrialstructures:
equal parts fancifuldesigntouchesandfunctional
rubber-clad floors.
Upon entering,Iaskmyselfifmymindisplaying
tricks on me,butaftermyvisionadjusts,Irealisethat
I have come face-to-facewiththebizarrelyfuturistic
jewel in Kosaten’scrown:asinglecircular,suspended
video artworkthatcastsanambientglowoverthe
sunken diningroombeneathit.Asmyeyesrefocus,
the flickeringglobedepictscherryblossomsdancing
on a spring breeze,settingamuchmoreidyllicscene.
Keen to dinewithintheheartoftheaction,Itake
a ringside seatatthesushicarouselthatlinesthe
venue’s centralcorridorandbeginscrollingthrough
the menu on aniPad,whichpromisestohavemy
order deliveredrighttomyseat.Thedishesfollow
traditional Japaneseexpressdiningformats;sushiis
served in pairs,withsashimi,searedtatakiandfillingAUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COMAll AT reviews areconductedanonymouslyandourwriterspaytheirownway–soweexperienceexactlywhatyouwould.JAPANESE
WEEKENDS | Reviews
Tasmania’s SECOND CITY takes a trip to Tokyo
with KOSATEN, a Japanese EATERY that
delights with NOVELTY and delivers fast-paced
CULINARY goods, finds CLARE ACHESON.
CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP
LEFT: Enjoy fresh
sashimi at this fun
Japanese eatery;
Kosaten’s interiors
borrow from the
streets of Tokyo;
Colour pops abound;
Matcha tiramisu for
dessert; Wash dinner
down with beer.PHOTOGRAPHY: RENEE HODSKISSEXPRESSIONS