54
DiadelosMuertosis paradedatthetable.Theparty
beginswitha brilliant-greenguacwithlightlycrisp
cornchips,‘tostadadepulpo’withcurlsofoctopus
tentaclesbeddedonvelvetyblackbeans,anda
goldenbowlofesquites(corn),triple-layeredwith
deliciousnessthankstowood-firing,pan-fryingand
a dollopofcrema.Wewashit downwithan‘Astrid
Arriba’cervezabrewedspecificallyforLaCasita
courtesyofYulli’sBrewswithnotesofpineapple,
anchochilliandcoriander– thetapsportinga
caricaturelikenessofownerAstrid.
“Doscervezasporfavor,”andonwardstobigger
things,whichcomeintheformof‘barbacoade
cordero’,anunctuous,coal-roastedlambtaco
envelopedina soft,almost-silkytortilla.Thefried
egg,potatoandquesoOaxacatacois likea grown-up
breakfastwrapandbenefitsfrombeingfoldedinthe
sameluxurytortillablanket.Awhollyreassuringplate
of‘carnitasconfrijoles’,orhamhockandbeans,is like
a firmembracefromtheMexicanabuelayouwishyou
had.It’sthekindofdishthatdriesthetearsinyour
eyeswithitscomfortingdown-homeflavour.
Happinessgrowswithdessert.Athree-milkcake
is a firmwedgeofsweetness,butthe‘buñuelos’,fried
doughballsservedwithcorncreamanda quenelleof
locallygrownsapotewinsthefinalfrontier.
Wesitbacktosipthatchickenliquor.Facesrelax
intosurpriseddelightasthemellowmezcaladdsa
protein-enrichedfinishtotheevening.Andsomehow,
it seemstomakeperfectsense.DETAILS
LACASITA
5/3FawcettStreet,
BrunswickHeads,NSW;
lacasita.com.au
Verdict:A cool,coastal
Mexicanhideoutwith
authenticdishesand
greatcocktailsthat
willbringthefiesta
all summerlong.
Score:
We rated: The bespoke
Astrid beer and
authentic brio from
the waitstaff.
We’d change: Beware the
perforated metal tables;
they don’t pair well
with a hand-eaten saucy
cuisine and your best
jeans. Mind the drips!FACES CONTORT IN A KIND of horrified
fascination as our waiter pours a ‘special’ mezcal at the
close of our meal. Our expressions come courtesy of
the explanation about this particular Oaxacan tipple’s
making, whereby a raw chicken breast is suspended in
the still, imparting its aroma and flavour throughout
the distillation. I’ve heard of the devil’s cut and the
angel’s cut, but the chook’s cut? The pechuga de pollo
mezcal certainly adds a poultry punctuation to a meal
at Brunswick Heads’ cool Mexican joint, La Casita.
This might be a casual seaside eatery, but La Casita
comes with a good pour of pedigree. It’s owned by
Josh Lewis and Astrid McCormack, who put this once
sleepy hamlet on the culinary radar with their two-
hatted fine diner, Fleet. And even though their latest
venture is a laid-back affair, it doesn’t mean the food
is any less considered. A red neon ‘Mexican’ sign lights
the way to the terracotta-pink courtyard and small
kitchen, tucked well away from the main drag, and we
settle in among the bamboo cladding for a feast that
leaves the ‘Tex’ well out of the ‘Mex’.
Prior to our hen-hued nightcap (vegetarians beware),
a procession of full-flavoured dishes as colourful asAUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COMAll AT reviews are conducted anonymously and our writers pay their own way – so we experience exactly what you would.CLOCKWISE
FROM ABOVE:
Lamb barbacoa
tacos are served;
A sharp Benny
Margarita is a must;
A cosy corner for
friends; You’ll find
a terracotta-pink
theme throughout;
A variety of Mexican
spirits line the bar.Fiesta flavours
WEEKENDS | Reviews
BRUNSWICK HEADS
receives a colourful
dose of MEXICAN
CUISINE, with some
extremely authentic
MEZCAL to keep diners
on their toes, finds
LAR A PICONE.