Unfortunately I don’t have time to do either right now
as I am scheduled to take to the water myself on a cruise
to the mesmerising Ball’s Pyramid, a jutting shard of rock
protruding from the dense blue waters kilometres o
the island. At metres, it is the world’s tallest sea stack,
and as we head towards it, past the dramatic basalt cli s
and churning waves that have been assaulting the island
for millennia, the otherworldly beauty of water and rock
becomes hypnotic.
Our captain Dave Gardiner, who has spent years on
these waters, names the abundant birds that dart and wheel
overhead. Suddenly sighting sleek outlines bobbing above
the surface of the water in the distance, he points towards
them thinking they are some of the plentiful dolphins that
can be found here. “No, that’s a pod of pilot whales,” he
explains upon closer inspection. “You guys are lucky to see
them. You know, Lord Howe is considered the Galápagos
of Australia,” he continues. I knew it!
The breadth and beauty of Lord Howe Island’s nature
is confi rmed yet again when I head out the next day to do a
spot of twitching with naturalist and tour guide Ian Hutton
and his happy band of birdwatchers. Our minivan stops onisland I hear both sides of what has become a heated
argument. Those who are for it trust the science that
says the poison being used will have no impact on the
abundant birdlife on the island, the staggering marine life
surrounding the island or the permanent human
population of some people. Those opposed to the
method of eradication are sceptical. Only time will tell.
As I ride a bike back to my accommodation, the
graciously luxe Arajilla Retreat, waving to fellow visitors
(there are only allowed on the island at any given
time) and local kids making their way to school sans shoes
(they are not part of the o cial uniform), I take in the
landscape of lush tropical vegetation ringed by
bluer-than-blue waters. I have my back to it now, but I
almost feel the presence of the hulking Mt Gower behind
me, so complete is its presence from every corner of the
island. I stop regularly to observe a rollcall of birds that
busy themselves rooting around in the thick, moist ground
cover in search of food, and check in on the beaches where
I have been told I am sure to see turtles coming in close to
the shore to feed.
The unspoilt beauty of it all makes me think of the
Galápagos Islands, a place I have never been myself but
one I imagine might be similar to Lord Howe Island.
The next day the clouds that unleashed a torrential
downpour the night before have cleared (Mt Gower is
still shrouded in its ubiquitous fl u y white crown),
presenting me with perfect island weather. Jumping back
in the saddle I head to Ned’s Beach on the north-east of
the island to watch as any number of mullet, garfi sh and
kingfi sh, among others, gather around anyone who
wades into the water here. Fins, snorkels and masks are
available for hire, the money collected in an honesty
box, or you can feed the fi sh by hand on nutritionally
benefi cial fi sh pellets dispensed in perfect piscine
portions from a nearby box.
FROM LEFT:
Kentia palms blanket
the island; The hulking
form of Mt Gower is
almost permanently
shrouded in cloud;
The delicious menu at
Capella Lodge changes
daily. OPPOSITE
(clockwise from top
right):The island’s
dense tropical vegetation;
The blissfully situated
Capella Lodge;
Glimpsing the island’s
basalt foundations;
The crystal clear waters
are irresistible.