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Fashion first
So, how did you start in fashion?
‘I love architecture, and began studying
that, but knew from day one that it
wasn’t right for me. So, I dropped out
and went to Edinburgh College of Art.
I did everything from painting and
sculpture to ceramics and jewellery,
which I was fascinated by. I also taught
myself to make handbags, just kind
of soldering rings of metal together.’
You’ve always loved bags then?
‘Definitely. I took two years out and
taught jewellery designers at different
companies in the Philippines, but
I really wanted to explore handbags. I
did a Masters at the Royal College of Art
in London and we used Cordwainers
for technical support. I gained great
technical skill, and learned how to cut
patterns and work with leather. My
career path was a bit winding, but all of
it feeds into what I do now.’
How has it helped you with your
job at Kate Spade New York?
‘When you’re designing a bag, often
what makes it unique is the hardware
and details. My background in jewellery
has really helped me with that.’
Which particular bags has that
fed into?
‘It would be the one I created first,
the “Nicola”. I sketched that design and
the twist lock when I was interviewing
with the company. I kept thinking about
the spade and the juxtaposition of the
heart, and wondering how I could make
it into a functioning piece. That’s when
I came up with the idea of the heart twist
lock; it’s a faceted enamel heart. I saw
an opportunity with the bags, as they
didn’t have any iconic elements.’
What’s the brand’s DNA?
‘If I go back to when Kate Spade
founded the label in the 90s, I was
living in Edinburgh studying
jewellery design. I remember
cutting out magazine articles
about her because her story was
really inspiring; this woman
starting a brand from her New
York apartment. She created
beautiful simple shapes, with a
simple label. The story behind that
was, on her first press day, Kate cut
out the labels from the inside of
the bags and attached them to the
front. So it was just a fabric label that
said, “Kate Spade New York”.’
It’s also a colourful brand, isn’t it?
‘Yes, and very joyful. Kate really was
a trailblazer, with these chic bags
that every woman in New Yorkaspired to have and could afford. When
I’m interviewed by American journalists,
90 per cent of the New Yorkers say
their first bag was a Kate Spade.’
Sounds like it’s a rite of passage
for young American women...
‘It was a career moment being gifted
a Kate Spade New York. The other thing
that stood out for me were the old ad
campaigns. There was always this very
spirited woman in them. Even though
they didn’t do ready-to-wear then, the
way they were styled was very colourful,
with a twist of humour.’
What’s your favourite of those
campaign images?
‘I loved the old ones by photographer
Tim Walker, which is why I wanted to
work with him when I joined. One
famous campaign shows a woman
walking down the middle of a road in
the US countryside, and the yellow line
on it is painted up the back of her dress.
When I did the first presentation for
the brand, we had this glitter line on the
runway that referenced that. There are
lots of ways I’m trying to incorporate
and pay tribute to Kate.’
Do you have a favourite colour?
‘I love lilac. When I added it to the pink,
the team said, “Wow, we’ve literally
never used lilac before.” I’m not from
a ready-to-wear design background, so
I go with my instincts on that front.’
What were your inspirations for
the AW19 collection?
‘I started off with this idea of raiding
a woman’s wardrobe. I looked at the
founder of Biba, Barbara Hulanicki,
and my mood board had Biba
images of Twiggy modelling. I loved
the “dressing-up box” glamour of
the Biba store. That’s where the
turbans and headscarves came in.’
And the colours?
‘We wanted shades that escalated
from rich to vibrant, so it was an
interesting mix of golden raisin
yellow with a spruce green or
a deep cherry, with more of a pale
dusty rose and pops of pink.’
Who are your all-time favourite
visual inspirations?
‘I’m a huge fan of the photographer
Deborah Turbeville. She has a series
of pictures in a bathhouse – it’s the
gaze of these women and yet
re still glamorous and strong.
I also love Louise Bourgeois,
particularly her book,The Fabric
Works, where she plays with
clashing fabrics.’■KATE SPADE
NEW YORK AW19
KATE SPADE
NEW YORK AW19
Biba fashion
in the 70sDress,
£550,
Kate
Spade
New YorkJacket,
£350, and
trousers,
£205, both
Kate Spade
New YorkBag,
£495,
Kate Spade
New YorkShoes,
£295,Kate
Spade New
YorkWORDS BY JESS WOOD. PHOTOGRAPHS BY IMAXTREE, GETTY IMAGES, RICHARD IMRIE. STILL LIFES BY NOHALIDEDIGITAL.COM
Skirt, £250,
Kate Spade
New York