SurfGirl Magazine 41have to say they were some of the best waves we ever
surfed.
After our return to the UK life took us back to Cardiff.
I travelled to Swansea Uni every day and my husband
slowly went grey working in the city, living too far away
from the sea.
THIRTIES
A job came up in North Devon and the day we moved I
found out I was pregnant I surfed Westward Ho! until I was
around 5 months pregnant, when it felt like balancing on
a football.
After the arrival of our first baby there was no surfing for
a while, as it turns out labour is pretty tough. When things
healed there were sparse sessions tag teaming on the
beach, trying to keep a baby happy. And after the second
baby everything ground to a halt.
Despite getting a new surfboard for my birthday, I just
wasn’t getting in the sea at all. A few snatched hours here
and there, but it was few and far between. Then eventually
the kids started school. Sneaky little weekday surfs started
again and I was making my comeback – but it was patchy
at best.FORTIES
For my 40th birthday I went to a surf camp in Morocco
with my husband. When we got there I felt old. Everyone
was at least a decade younger than us but we used our
week wisely and surfed until our arms dropped off – from
Tamri and Imsouane, to Boilers and Anza, the fire was
re-ignited.
Once I came home to North Devon I made the most
of every opportunity to surf as it’s has been the reason
behind most of the big decisions I’ve ever made. And now
life is better and brighter, the kids are old enough to learn,
and soon they’ll be better than me. So I say bring on the
40s and see you in the water!JOURNEY
Fan time, Rhiannon with Occy.