tatler.com Tatler September 2019 141Le Train Bleu Before leaving Paris’ Gare du Lyon on the speedy TGV
down to Nice, book lunch in one of the banquettes of this bastion of
travel’s golden era, named for the famous luxury train to the Riviera. Luxuriate
in the fabled environs of this art nouveau landmark and enjoy coupes of
Ruinart champagne, delectable trays of oysters and perfect foie gras.
La Réserve de Beaulieu & Spa The ultimate backdrop in which to live out
the rose-tinted fantasy of summer and a paeon to classic Riviera elegance,
everyone from Jean Cocteau to Walt Disney (who was inspired by its
saccharine glamour for his own castle), W Somerset Maugham and Brigitte
Bardot has stayed in this palatial pink hotel, which has one of the loveliest
saltwater swimming pools on the entire coast. Dining on the terrace is
a highlight, where the smell of the pines and geraniums mingle with
the scent of grilled lamb cutlets drizzled with fresh pesto, and every
evening in the bar, the hotel’s resident white-jacketed crooner plays a
succession of jazz classics on the antique piano. The atmosphere is
sophisticated and romantic.
La Colombe d’Or Elizabeth Taylor played boules
here with Yves Montand; Picasso, Miro and
Braque paid for their meals with the pictures that
now hang on the walls. This fabled restaurant,
with rooms in Saint-Paul de Vence, still retains
its bohemian air: pure South of France, heavy
with herbs, food, Bandol wine and sun.
Hôtel Métropole, Monaco This hotel embodies
the old-world glamour of Monte Carlo, where you
can swim in the pool alongside Karl Lagerfeld’s
Odyssey-inspired mural or experience the thrill
of driving an F1 car on a private circuit (just ask
the convivial concierge) – or you can simply revel
in the just-opened Givenchy spa. (Revisiting the RivieraIn the Grand Palais,
placards citied Antibes,
Cannes and, of course,
St Tropez – the most
fabulous destinationsWhen journeying from Paris to Nice by rail, these
are the stops not to miss, says Delilah KhomoHot of f theE xpressIT WAS ALL ABOARD THE
Chanel Cruise Express for the most
glamorous of Gallic adventures.
Guests arrived in Paris, disembarking
at the splendid art deco Grand
Palais, which had been transformed
into the most grandiose of train
stations to celebrate Virginie Viard’s
first collection as Creative Director
since she took over from her late
longterm collaborator Karl Lagerfeld.
The guest list, of course, was très
chic. Chanel house ambassadors
from Ali MacGraw to Carole Bouquet,
Vanessa Paradis and Lily-Rose Depp
had arrived in the French capital the
previous evening for an intimate
party in the Chanel store on Place
Vendôme, to launch the new J12
watch collection. After an exceptional
night at the Ritz, which included
a champagne reception in the jasmine-
scented courtyard garden followed
by a nightcap at the glorious Bar
Hemingway, we were transported in
the morning to the Riviera-themed
show for breakfast.
In the guise of the ‘Chanel Express’
train station, the setting of the show
was reminiscent of the gilded
grandeur of Le Train Bleu, the epic
rail journey from Paris to the South
of France. Here, our imaginations
were drawn back to a more civilised
mode of travel, where we were
treated to an elegant breakfast in an
old-school dining carriage that hadbeen christened Le Riviera. The
perfectly laid tables were dressed in
crisp white linen and each one came
complete with a view, a little lamp
and a gold luggage rack, and – my
very favourite touch – a Chanel-
logoed carpet, which felt almost too
glamorous to walk on. After break-
fast, we were escorted down the
sweeping staircase into the soaring
main space, where we were seated on
wooden banquettes, surrounded by
placards citing Antibes, Cannes and,
of course, St Tropez – all of the most
fabulous destinations of the eternally
glamorous French Riviera.
And what a backdrop to showcase
Virginie’s fresh, modern approach to
Chanel’s classic tweed jackets, which
she sent out in a dreamy palette of
fuchsia, lavender and pistachio
green, or the frothy chiffon cocktail
dresses with divine lace and bow
detailing that recalled sun-soaked
summers in the South of France.
I adored the easy elegance of the
collection, all of which begged to
be worn in that louche, sexy and
very French way. Take the high-
waisted, gabardine double-button
trousers layered over a one-piece
swimsuit – just the thing for a long,
languid lunch at Le Club 55, paired
with an oversized Chanel bag. Take
me to the Riviera now.Get set for the new golden
age of train travel, with
Virginie Viard’s maiden
voyage for Chanel Cruise
By SOPHIE PERALe Train BleuPHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY; GETTY IMAGES; STUART CANTORLa Réserve de Beaulieu09-19TRAVEL-CRUISE.indd 141 17/07/2019 17:57