A
requipa, or the white
city as it’s known by
both locals and tourists
thanks to the many low-built,
cream-coloured facades lining
the central streets, is one of the
prettiest stops on South Peru’s
Gringo Trail.
Lying to the west of Cusco
and south of Lima, this hilly
valley might be unpredictable
weather-wise, but it’s easy to
forgive the rain. It’s great to use
as a spot to chill between the
bustle of La Paz and heading
north east to hike Machu Picchu,
or vice versa.
Usually, tired tourists arrive
in Arequipa from Puno on the
overnight bus after crossing
the Bolivian boarder or having
headed south from Ica, and are
happy to revel in its restful vibe.
It’s a place to wind down –
a lazy city of about 85,000
built for café hopping, reading,
leisurely walks and window
shopping. Of course, there are
the treks and outdoorsy things
Peru is famous for, but when
it comes to taking things slow,
Arequipa is the best pace.
Peru prides itself on being a
food mecca and Arequipenian
cooking is some of the most
widely celebrated, with
restaurants country-wide
slinging the region’s time-
honoured dishes.
Refined it may not be, but
hearty and gut-sticking, sure.
If you’re looking to try dishes
at a good price, Picanteria
Capitana’s no-frills service
and communal dining room
certainly charms. Serving
heaving plates of meat and
carb-heavy daily
specials such
as potatoes
baked with
local sheep’s
milk cheese
and meat, and
peanut-stuffed
peppers, you’ll
need a lie down
afterwards. Or
opt for the sugar
hit that comes
with a glass of
chicha morada,
a cloying local
drink made using
purple corn.
Other notable
eating spots
include Salteñeria
Roma where
audible moans of
pleasure can often
be heard from
those devouring their juicy
ground beef, pie-like saltenias;
Mercado San Camilo for
fresh juices and chicharron
sandwiches; and vegan sushi
restaurant El Buda Profundo, run
by a waif-like man who appears
to do a lot of yoga – he’s your
guide to the best dishes.
Once you’ve finished stuffing
your face, chuck your boots
on to hike Colca Canyon, the
world’s second deepest canyon.
Tuned-in tour companies mean
anyone who’s keen can give the
canyon a go, with most offering
one, two or three-day guided
treks. Going it alone is also
an option, but be mindful if
budgeting is your motivation for
this, by the time you’ve bought
bus tickets, food, park entranceand accommodation, you’re
unlikely to come out much
under the $100 most tour
companies sell tickets for.
Back in town, the churches
on either side of Plaza de Armas
are a meditative, if slightly
depressing, tribute to Spanish
colonialism – all gold leaf,
ornate altars and crucifixes.
Neo-renaissance-style Basilica
Cathedral is especially worth
a look for its 1600s gothic
architecture, which was restored
after an earthquake in 2001.
Then, if you’re looking for
a relaxed history lesson, the
Santa Catalina Monastery
delivers. Built in 1580, don’t
scrimp on a tour guide – the
reward for your $20 is a far
more informative visit, given a
distinct lack of signage inside.Hand-carved utensils
are readily available as
you wander along the
streets, as are fresh
juices (right).Hostels are your best
bet for a place to stay
in Arequipa – I stayed
at the Dragonfly.An insider’s guide
to... Arequipa
BEST PHOTO OP: Make sure^
you get a sweaty snap after^
the painful last-day climb out^
of Colca Canyon. Keep an^
eye out for graceful, photo-^
bombing condors.
BEST COFFEE: Chaqchao
Chocolates (the café is upstairs)
serves real-deal espresso and^
an ace carrot cake with killer^
cream cheese icing.
WHAT TO PACK: Do not forget^
a raincoat! High altitude and the
surrounding mountains mean a
light drizzle most afternoons.
SHOPPING DESTINATION:^
Learn about the many types^
of alpaca wool and how it’s
processed at Mundo Alpaca,^
then buy legit souvenirs. Find^
it at Calle Alameda San Lazaro.