The Washington Post - 31.07.2019

(ff) #1

E2 EZ EE THE WASHINGTON POST.WEDNESDAY, JULY 31 , 2019


spring.
This one-pot chicken soup
relies on the summer calling
cards of lemon, tomato and
zucchini. Oddly enough, the
flavor of chicken takes a back
seat. Instead, the bite-size
chunks of lean meat lend
texture and pair naturally with
the light pasta element of
slippery orzo. Each bowlful gets
topped with a helping of basil
pesto, which seals the deal,
summerwise.
Slurp it up warm or even at
room temperature; it’ll be fine.
Leftovers morph into stewy
territory, as the orzo tends to
absorb the broth after a day’s
refrigeration.

Bonnie S. Benwick, who recently
retired from The Post, tested this
recipe. Questions? Email her:
[email protected]. Have a quick
dinner recipe that works for you?
Send it along, too.

 Find other quick meals with The
Post’s Recipe Finder:
washingtonpost.com/recipes

These are the
days when food
sites thrill to
charms of
seasonal eating.
Tastes like
summer! Perfect
for picnics!
Summer in a
bowl! Summer on
the grill! I wasn’t
expecting a hot
brothy pot to figure into this
line of tropes, but here it is:
chicken soup for summer.
Then again, it should be no
surprise. America loves chicken
soup. Homemade or store-
bought, it’s always at the top of
most-popular lists. It lives up to
its hype as comfort food, healing
food, healthful food. Recipes
can take hours or minutes, and
they welcome modification. The
stock can be rich and flavored
or light and clarified, but plant-
based add-ins are the elements
that distinguish chicken soup’s
seasons: kale and roasted garlic
in the fall, hearty leeks in
winter, carrots and dill in

with a little yogurt, lemon juice,
ice and water. The jazz comes
from garnishes of jalapeño, dill,
basil and pumpkin seeds, all of
which add pops of flavor and
texture to the soothing, cooling,
refreshing soup.
It’s simple to make. So simple
that whether you’re ambling
home through the heat or just
trying to make it from one form
of A/C to another, you can
handle it.
[email protected]

with the stove top or oven; I also
don’t want to weigh myself
down.
Cold soups come to the rescue,
every year. When I’ve got peak
tomatoes from the garden or
market, it’s gazpacho time, but
when I don’t, I turn to something
like Anna Jones’s Avocado,
Cucumber and Fennel Soup. The
prep involves merely cutting
those three primary ingredients
enough to stuff them into a
blender, where you puree them

a bit when I discovered the
magic of alleyways and explored
routes to find maximum shade.
Even so, after walking home at
the end of the day, the last meal I
wanted to make was anything
heavy and hot.
Now, my commute involves 20
minutes in the relative comfort
of an air-conditioned
(electric!) car, but I still have an
appetite for lighter, quicker
meals. It’s not just about
avoiding heating up my kitchen

My first summer
in Washington, I
was fairly
miserable. I lived
barely 10 blocks
from work, but
what had been a
12-minute walk in
the wintertime
slowed to a 20-
minute slog come
June and July as I tried to avoid
arriving at work drenched. My
second summer, things improved

Just simmer the ingredients
until the berries are warm and
bursting — less than 10 minutes
— then puree. The
accompanying recipe makes two
batches worth, so you can serve
a crowd, or keep any remaining
sauce in the refrigerator for four
days, or freeze it for several
months. Here, the sauce is
brushed onto chicken thighs
toward the end of grilling and
chars pleasantly on the meat
without burning. Doing that
gives the poultry a purple-ish
hue, which doesn’t bother me,
but if you would rather avoid
that and get more of a color
contrast between the sauce and
the chicken, brush it with a little
honey at that point instead, and
serve the sauce alongside.
Either way, you get the
complete, fresh effect.
[email protected]

Krieger is a registered dietitian,
nutritionist and author who hosts
public television’s “Ellie’s Real Good
Food.” She blogs and offers a weekly
newsletter at elliekrieger.com.

Blueberries give
this lip-smacking
barbecue sauce
multiple levels of
fresh appeal. One
hits you at first
glance: its
unexpected
indigo color.
Another is that its
flavor is fresher
than a traditional sauce, with
the fruit lending its gentle,
nuanced sweetness to the tangy-
savory mix. That sweetness is
backed up by a drizzle of
molasses, so this sauce has none
of the highly refined sugar that
tops the ingredient list of most
bottled barbecue sauces, nor the
artificial additives.
Adding to its health appeal,
the sauce also has less salt and
more nutrients than its
counterparts. With those selling
points, the bounty of fresh
berries at the market now
(though frozen would work,
too), and the fact that this
luscious sauce is so simple and
quick to make, why wouldn’t
you?


Here’s proof there’s a chicken soup for every season


A cool pick-me-up when summer slows you


STACY ZARIN GOLDBERG FOR THE WASHINGTON POST;
FOOD STYLING BY LISA CHERKASKY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

STACY ZARIN GOLDBERG FOR THE WASHINGTON POST;
FOOD STYLING BY LISA CHERKASKY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Avocado, Cucumber and Fennel Soup
2 to 4 servings (makes about 4 cups), Healthy
It serves four as an appetizer or two as a meal, along with some bread,
if you’d like.
Adapted from “A Modern Way to Cook,” by Anna Jones (Ten Speed
Press, 2016).

Ingredients
Flesh from 1 ripe avocado
1 large cucumber, chopped
(unpeeled)
^1 / 2 large fennel bulb (tough
outer layer removed), cored
and chopped
2 tablespoons Greek-style
yogurt (may substitute coconut
yogurt)
^1 / 4 cup fresh lemon juice, or
more as needed (from 1 large
lemon)
^1 / 4 cup ice cubes

^1 / 2 cup cold water
^1 / 2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt,
or more as needed
^1 / 4 teaspoon freshly ground
black pepper
Few fresh dill fronds
Few sprigs of fresh basil
^1 / 2 jalapeño pepper, stemmed,
seeded and chopped
^1 / 4 cup hulled, unsalted
pumpkin seeds, toasted
(pepitas; see NOTE)
Extra-virgin olive oil or
avocado oil, for drizzling

Steps
Combine the avocado, cucum-
ber, fennel, yogurt, lemon juice,
ice, water, salt and pepper in a
high-powered blender (such as
a Vitamix); blend on high to
form a completely smooth soup.
Taste, and add more lemon juice
and/or salt, as needed.
To serve, pour into bowls and
top with dill, basil, jalapeño and
the toasted pumpkin seeds,
then drizzle with the oil.
NOTE: Toast the pumpkin
seeds in a dry skillet over medi-
um heat for about 6 minutes, or
until fragrant, popping slightly
and lightly browned, shaking
the pan to prevent scorching.
Cool completely before using.
Nutrition | Per serving (based on 4): 210
calories, 8 g protein, 16 g carbohydrates, 15
g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol,
160 mg sodium, 7 g dietary fiber, 5 g sugar
Recipe tested by Joe Yonan; email questions
to [email protected]

Chicken Orzo Soup With Pesto
4 servings, Healthy
Serve with cornbread.
MAKE AHEAD: For best flavor and texture, leftovers can be
refrigerated for up to 1 day.
Adapted from “Better Homes and Gardens Quick Homemade: Fast,
Fresh Meals in 30 Minutes” (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2019).

Ingredients
1 pound boneless, skinless
chicken breast halves or thighs
32 ounces low-sodium chicken
broth
One 14.5-ounce can diced
tomatoes, preferably with basil
and garlic (may substitute 2
medium tomatoes, hulled, and
1 teaspoon minced garlic or the
same size can of no-salt-added
diced tomatoes)
^3 / 4 cup dried whole-wheat orzo
pasta (may substitute regular
orzo)
1 medium zucchini or yellow
squash, or half of each kind
1 lemon
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

4 to 6 tablespoons basil pesto,
for serving (store-bought or
homemade)

Steps
Trim/discard excess fat from the
chicken, then cut the meat into
bite-size chunks, placing them
in a large saucepan as you go.
Add the broth, tomatoes and
their juices and the orzo; bring
to a boil over medium-high
heat, then reduce the heat to
medium-low; cook for 7 or 8
minutes, stirring a few times.
Meanwhile, rinse the zucchini
or squash and trim/discard the
ends. Cut into^1 / 2 -inch dice, or
coarsely chop, to yield 1^1 / 2 to 2
cups.

Grate 1 teaspoon of zest from
the lemon (about half a lemon’s
worth) directly into the pot,
then cut the fruit in half and
squeeze in 1 tablespoon of its
juice. Stir in the zucchini and/or
yellow squash and cook for 3 to
4 minutes, until tender. The
chicken should be cooked
through.
Taste, and season lightly with
salt and pepper if you are using
the basil-and-garlic-flavored to-

matoes; season with about 1^1 / 4
teaspoons salt and a few grinds
of pepper if you are using fresh
or no-salt-added tomatoes.
Divide among individual bowls;
top each portion with the pesto
(to taste). Cut the remaining
lemon into wedges, for serving.
Nutrition | Per serving (using white-meat
chicken, no-salt-added diced tomatoes and
whole-wheat orzo): 380 calories, 35 g
protein, 30 g carbohydrates, 13 g fat, 3 g
saturated fat, 90 mg cholesterol, 590 mg
sodium, 7 g dietary fiber, 6 g sugar

Bonnie
Benwick
DINNER IN
25 MINUTES

Joe Yonan
WEEKNIGHT
VEGETARIAN

Grilled Chicken Thighs


With Blueberry Barbecue Sauce


4 servings, Healthy
If you’d rather avoid the purplish hue the sauce imparts, brush the
chicken with a little honey instead and serve the sauce alongside.
MAKE AHEAD: The sauce can be refrigerated for up to 4 days.
From nutritionist and cookbook author Ellie Krieger.


Ingredients


For the sauce


1 cup fresh or frozen
blueberries
^1 / 2 cup canned, no-salt-added
tomato sauce
2 tablespoons molasses
2 tablespoons apple cider
vinegar
 11 / 2 teaspoons chili powder
1 teaspoon yellow mustard
^1 / 2 teaspoon kosher salt
^1 / 4 teaspoon freshly ground
black pepper


For the chicken


 11 / 2 pounds boneless, skinless
chicken thighs
^1 / 4 teaspoon kosher salt
^1 / 4 teaspoon freshly ground
black pepper
Vegetable oil


Steps


For the sauce: Combine the
berries, tomato sauce, molasses,
vinegar, chili powder, mustard,
salt and pepper in a medium
saucepan over medium heat.
Cook, stirring occasionally;


once the mixture is barely bub-
bling at the edges. Reduce the
heat to medium-low and cook,
stirring frequently, about 7 min-
utes, or until the berries soften
and are nearly bursting. Cool
slightly, then transfer to a
blender and puree until
smooth. You should have about
1 cup of sauce.
For the chicken: Season chicken
on both sides with salt and
pepper. Brush a grill or grill pan
with oil and preheat it over
medium-high heat. Grill the
chicken for about 3 minutes per
side. Lightly brush each side
with the sauce and continue to
grill 1 to 2 more minutes per
side, until the chicken is cooked
though and is nicely browned
with visible grill marks.
Serve right away, drizzled with
more sauce (about 1 tablespoon
more sauce per portion).
Nutrition | Per serving (using half the sauce):
220 calories, 33 g protein, 8 g
carbohydrates, 6 g fat, 2 g saturated fat,
150 mg cholesterol, 430 mg sodium, 0 g
dietary fiber, 6 g sugar
Recipe tested by Kathleen O’Boyle; email
questions to [email protected]

Blueberry sauce adds


shades of sweetness


STACY ZARIN GOLDBERG FOR THE WASHINGTON POST;
FOOD STYLING BY LISA CHERKASKY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Ellie
Krieger


NOURISH


To contact us: Email:
[email protected] Telephone:
202-334-7575 Mail: The
Washington Post, Food, 1301 K St.
NW, Washington, D.C. 20071

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