WEDNESDAY, JULY 31 , 2019. THE WASHINGTON POST EZ EE E7
Ramey is skeptical of the move
toward unoaked chardonnay.
“Can you use too much new oak?
Absolutely,” he said. “But the
answer to using too much new
oak isn’t fermenting it in a
stainless steel tank. Then you
take away too much of the
nuance. I personally think non-
malo chardonnays are a shadow
of what they could be, and just
because you go through malo
doesn’t mean you end up with a
fat, flabby wine.”Chardonnay expresses
terroir.
That blank canvas aspect means
chardonnay is a good mirror of
its climate and location — the
mysterious quality wine lovers
call terroir. In warmer climes, it
can taste tropical (pineapple,
mango), while cooler settings
match the grape’s refreshing
acidity with flavors of orchard
fruit like peaches and apricots.
The winemaker’s art is to capture
that expression without
obscuring it with too much oak
or other techniques.
Some of my favorite
chardonnay producers, other
than the French classics and
those mentioned above, come
from cooler climates that
emphasize racy complexity. Look
for wines from Tasmania
(Tolpuddle), the high-altitude
vineyards of Argentina’s
Mendoza (Catena, Salentein),
Sonoma County (Gary Farrell,
Hirsch, Flowers), Oregon
(Domaine Drouhin, Adelsheim),
and Virginia (Linden, Michael
Shaps).McIntyre blogs at dmwineline.com.
On Twitter: @dmwine.generation of U.S. wine drinkers
was introduced to chardonnay
fermented and aged completely
in new barrels, and we came to
identify those flavors with the
wine rather than the barrel.
Today, winemakers tend to
ferment only a portion of the
wine in new oak, reusing older
barrels for the rest. That results
in a more balanced wine and
saves money on expensive
barrels.
The malolactic Ramey
mentioned is a secondary
fermentation that transforms
tart malic acid into softer lactic
acid. (Think green apples to
cream.) All red wines have this
fermentation, but chardonnay is
the only white wine that
routinely has it. “Malo,” as it is
often called, softens tannin and
decreases bitterness that can
come from the grape skins. It is
attributed as the cause of buttery
flavors in chardonnay, though
there are other chemical factors
involved in that phenomenon.
Toasty flavors come from the
char on the new oak barrels, but
the butter on that toast comes
from malolactic fermentation.
Chardonnay goes well with
buttered popcorn, but it
shouldn’t taste like it.
New World chard makers have
toned down the oak, even to the
point of making “naked,” or
unoaked chardonnay. Chehalem
Winery in Oregon makes one
called Inox, for stainless steel,
and Virginia’s Chatham winery
makes a tasty version called
Steel. Many chablis producers
traditionally do not use new oak,
preferring to let the region’s
chalky soils express themselves
through the wine.said. “It’s so complex, so
interesting. And it’s the red wine
of whites for two reasons: barrel
fermentation and malolactic.”
Which brings us to our next
point.Chardonnay should not taste
like a tree or a bucket of
buttered popcorn.
Fermenting the wine in barrels
gives added tannin and
structure, as well as some flavors
of toast and spice, such as clove,
vanilla or nutmeg. New barrels
impart more of these flavors to
the wine, while aging in older
barrels gives texture. Asuch as riesling or sauvignon
blanc, chardonnay has a “blank
canvas” aspect that allows
winemakers to flex their
technique and leave their own
imprint on the wine.
David Ramey, who played a
major role in developing the
current style of California
chardonnay, recently explained
the grape’s appeal during an
interview with sommelier/
journalist Levi Dalton on the
podcast “I’ll Drink to That.”
“Chardonnay is the most
compelling and popular white
wine in the world, because it is
the red wine of whites,” Rameywine — by far.
California had 93,148 acres of
vineyards planted to chardonnay
in 2018, according to the U.S.
Department of Agriculture’s
annual report. The next most
common white wine grape was
French colombard, far behind at
18,246 acres, followed by pinot
gris and sauvignon blanc.
(Cabernet sauvignon,
California’s main red grape,
surpassed chardonnay by a mere
100 acres.)
Winemakers love chardonnay
because it is easy to grow. And
since its flavors are not as
distinctive as other varieties,Chardonnay is so
popular that it is
nearly
synonymous with
white wine. We
feel comfortable
with it. It’s easy to
say, and it sounds
like it ends with a
smile. And
because
chardonnay is so ubiquitous, it
can be easy to take for granted.
Here are five things to know to
make your chardonnay
experience more meaningful.
Chardonnay’s homeland
is Burgundy.
Chardonnay originated in the
Burgundy region of France, and
takes its name from a small town
in the Maconnais, an area in
southern Burgundy that makes
relatively inexpensive, high-
value chardonnays. Because it is
now grown nearly everywhere
wine is made, and because we
label it by the grape variety
rather than the place of origin,
we tend to forget that
appellations such as Montrachet,
Meursault, Pouilly-Fuissé and
Chablis are synonymous with
chardonnay.
Got bubbles? So does chard.
Chardonnay is one of the three
main grapes used in champagne,
along with (reds) pinot noir and
pinot meunier. A blanc de blanc
champagne is all chardonnay,
and in my opinion the ultimate
expression of the grape. Many
New World sparkling wines use a
significant amount of
chardonnay, as well.
It’s the most popular white
5 things to know about the ubiquitous white wine that is chardonnay
TOM MCCORKLE FOR THE WASHINGTON POST
Oceano Chardonnay Spanish Springs Vineyard is a roller coaster in a glass and a fun label to keep
track of in years to come.Wine
DAVE
MCINTYRE
Exceptional Excellent Very GoodGood chardonnay can be found up
and down the price spectrum,
including some pricey grand cru
burgundies and blanc de blancs
champagnes. Two bargain
chardonnays I find consistently
delicious and easy to find are
Cousiño-Macul from Chile and
Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi
from California. These five show a
variety of expressions.
GREAT VALUE
Talley Vineyards, Bishop’s Peak
Chardonnay 2017
San Luis Obispo County, Calif., $19
Bishop’s Peak is a second label for
Talley Vineyards, a mainstay on
California’s Central Coast since the
mid-1980s. This wine is fermented
primarily in stainless steel tanks,
with some in “neutral” or older
barrels to give structure without the
oak flavors. It bursts with ripe
orchard fruit flavors and bracing
acidity. Certified sustainable.
Alcohol by volume: 13.6 percent.
Distributed by Winebow: Available in the
District at DCanter, D’Vines, Rodman’s.
Available in Maryland at Balducci’s, Bradley
Food & Beverage and Beer, Wine & Co. in
Bethesda, Fenwick Beer & Wine in Silver
Spring, Mills Fine Wine and Spirits in
Annapolis, Quarry Wine & Spirits in
Baltimore, Travilah Square Beer & Wine in
Rockville. Available in Virginia at Chain
Bridge Cellars in McLean, Mom’s Apple Pie
in Round Hill.
GREAT VALUE
Oceano Chardonnay Spanish
Springs Vineyard 2016/2017
San Luis Obispo County, $38
Oceano was created three years
ago by Rachel Martin, formerly
director of Boxwood Vineyards in
Middleburg, Va., and her husband,
music producer Kurt Deutsch. I
raved about the 2016, and I’m just
as enthusiastic about the 2017,
which is now reaching the
Washington-area market (it is
already available in New York City.)
Martin and winemaker Marbue
Marke enjoy tinkering with the
blend, and the result is a roller
coaster in a glass — there’s a lot
going on. Can a $38 wine be a
“great value”? Yes, when it’s this
good. ABV: 13.6 percent.
Distributed by Lanterna. The following
stores have the 2016, except where noted:
Available in the District at Calvert Woodley,
MacArthur Beverages, Schneider’s of
Capitol Hill, Wide World of Wines (2017).
Available in Maryland at the Tasting Room
Wine Bar & Shop at National Harbor (2016
and 2017). Available in Virginia at Chain
Bridge Cellars in McLean, Gentle Harvest in
Marshall.
Soutiran Grand Cru Blanc de
Blancs
Champagne, France, $58
Grand cru champagne, the three
little words that say “I love you” to
wine fiends. This one is so good
and complex, combining ripe fruit
flavors with a toasty brioche note
and a refreshing chalky salinity,
that to describe it further would
diminish it. And it is well-priced for
a grand cru. ABV: 12.5 percent.
Imported and distributed by Simon N
Cellars: Available in the District at Cork &
Fork. Available in Maryland at Wine Cellars
of Annapolis. Available in Virginia at Tastings
of Charlottesville, Unwined (Alexandria,
Belleview).GREAT VALUE
Sylvie & Alain Normand, Mâcon
la Roche Vineuse 2017
Burgundy, France, $21
Grape historians place
chardonnay’s birthplace in the
Maconnais region, perhaps even
near the town of La Roche Vineuse,
so this wine may be as close to the
origin story as we can get. It is rich
with history and fruit, laced with
exotic spice and a sense of
timelessness. ABV: 13 percent.
Imported by Vintage ’59, distributed by
Winebow: Available in the District at
Rodman’s. Available in Maryland at Bradley
Food & Beverage and Beer, Wine & Co. in
Bethesda, Wells Discount Liquors in
Baltimore. Available in Virginia at Dominion
Wine and Beer in Falls Church, Swirl & Sip in
Fairfax.Domaine de Fussiacus Saint-
Véran 2017
Burgundy, $24
Saint-Véran is another district of
Burgundy that specializes in
affordable, good chardonnay. This
wine is not fussy, but relaxed and
comfortable with its expressive
fruit flavors and a hint of caramel
and toast. ABV: 13 percent.
Imported and distributed by Elite: Available
in the District at Connecticut Avenue Wine &
Liquor, Rodman’s. Available in Maryland at
Wine Bin in Ellicott City, Wine Source in
Baltimore. Available in Virginia at Dominion
Wine and Beer in Falls Church, Grand Cru in
Arlington, Libbie Market in Richmond,
Norm’s Beer & Wine in Vienna, Unwined in
Alexandria, Vino Market in Midlothian,
Whole Foods Market (Alexandria, Arlington,
Reston).Availability information is based on
distributor records. Wines might not
be in stock at every listed store and
might be sold at additional stores.
Prices are approximate. Check
Winesearcher.com to verify
availability, or ask a favorite wine
store to order through a distributor.RECOMMENDATIONSTOM MCCORKLE FOR THE WASHINGTON POSTFrom left, Sylvie & Alain Normand, Mâcon la Roche Vineuse 2017;
Domaine de Fussiacus Saint-Véran 2017; Soutiran Grand Cru
Blanc de Blancs; Oceano Chardonnay Spanish Springs Vineyard
2016/2017; Talley Vineyards, Bishop’s Peak Chardonnay 2017.
37
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18.99
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24.99
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47.44
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28.99
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23.99
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32.99Bacardi
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31.98
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37.88
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