STEP 1
STEP 2
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
LAYING TRACK
September 2019 25
By Eric White
I gathered my tools at the work site
(the soldering iron is out of the frame
to the right), then started by soaking
the track with a spray bottle filled
with water. I was fortunate the track
wasn’t glued down with caulk – that
would’ve meant more elbow grease
to pull everything up.
With the track and ballast
wetted, it was easy to slip the putty
knife under the track and pry it up
while scraping away the ballast. As
I worked, I found spikes holding the
rail down. I also used a soldering
iron to loosen soldered rail joints. It’s
best to remove full sections of track
up to the joints. All of the old compo-
nents were replaced with new. I also
heated and removed feeder wires
from the track and pulled them up
and out of the way.
With the bad-order turnouts and
track out of the way, it was time to
bring in the replacements. The switch
rods on the new Peco turnouts were
about the same distance from the end
of the rails as the switch rods on the
old Walthers/Shinohara turnouts.
That meant I could place the switch
rods over the slots cut in the roadbed
for eventual switch motor installation
without having to cut any rail.
After removing a few straggler
ties, I was ready to lay new track.
I was again fortunate, this time that
the roadbed was made of cork.
Homasote roadbed would’ve been
shredded by the soaking and attack
of the putty knife. I used spikes driven
into the outside of the rails to hold
the track in place. To make spiking
easier, I drilled holes in the ties with a
no. 78 bit in a pin vise. The spikes are
about 6 inches apart.
One of the turnouts I replaced
led to a spur. The ballast had been
detailed with weeds to simulate
spillage in front of a grain silo, and
I didn’t want to pull that up, so I had
to make the Peco turnout fit the same
space as the Walthers turnout.
As you can see, both no. 5 turnouts
have the same geometry, but the
Peco turnout is shorter after the frog
than the Walthers turnout. I cut short
filler pieces of flextrack to make up
the gap.
Once all of the track was in place,
I replaced the feeder wires. I also
added a few new feeders to the spur
tracks to improve reliability.
Needlenose pliers
Putty knife
Spray bottle with water
Multimeter
Slip putty knife
under track
Dampened ballast
Remove
track nails
Loosen soldered
joints
Align switch rod with
original location
Clean up the
connection
points
Filler pieces to match old turnout