Chatelaine_April_May_2019

FDA and the E.U. consider it safe for cos-

metics. Still, more companies are choos-

ing to go sulfate-free. Herbal Essences

has just launched its Bio:Renew Sulfate

Free shampoos, the fi rst mass-market

haircare products to be EWG Verifi ed—a

seal given to products free of the group’s

“chemicals of concern.”

Phthalates

Phthalates are a group of chemicals used

as plastics softeners and as solvents

and plasticizers in cosmetic products

like nail polishes and fragrances. Some

phthalates have been associated with

toxic eff ects on reproductive health in

both men and women. Health Canada has

concluded that only one type of phthal-

ate, diethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP), is

harmful to human health; it’s on the gov-

ernment’s Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist

and prohibited for use in cosmetic prod-

ucts. But the E.U. is so concerned about

four diff erent types of phthalates—DEHP,

as well as butyl benzyl phthalate, dibutyl

phthalate and diisobutyl phthalate—

that it is banning them from use in con-

sumer products.

SEARCHING FOR CLEAN

When it comes to choosing the safest

beauty products, there are few cut-and-

dry answers. Ultimately, there’s no sim-

ple way to determine any given product’s

“cleanness,” though you can fi nd a hand-

ful of tools that have developed their

own subjective rating system. The Think

Dirty app (thinkdirtyapp.com) lets you

scan barcodes for in-store research and

off ers a list of brands whose ingredients

have been vetted. The most popular

Sulfate-free hair care

Briogeo Rosarco

Farewell Frizz

Milk Leave-in

Conditioning

Spray is made

without sulfates,

parabens,

phthalates,

silicones, DEA or

synthetic colour.

$26, sephora.ca.

Attitude Super

Leaves Nourishing

& Strengthening

Natural Conditioner

revives dry hair

with grapeseed

oil and olive leaf

extract. The Canadian

company chooses

ingredients based on

EWG assessments.

$12, well.ca.

Beautycounter

Daily Shampoo

swaps potentially

irritating sulfates

for coconut oil–

derived cleansing

ingredients. $32,

beautycounter.com.

Herbal Essences

Bio:Renew Sulfate-

Free Honey

& Vitamin B

Daily Moisture

Shampoo is

EWG Verifi ed —a

fi rst for any mass-

market haircare

brand. $8, well.ca.

resource is the Skin Deep Cosmetics

Database (ewg.org/skindeep), published

by the Environmental Working Group

(EWG). This non-profit organization

works to eliminate the use of potentially

dangerous chemicals in household items,

but critics have also accused it of fear-

mongering. Ivana Knezevic, cosmetic sci-

ence professor in the School of Biological

Sciences and Applied Chemistry at

Toronto’s Seneca College, cautions that

EWG ratings offer interpretations of

research, making it tricky for someone

who’s not a science geek to know who or

what to believe. “I wouldn’t take them as

an authority,” says Knezevic, noting

some people may be unduly fearful of

certain ingredients and confused by

confl icting messages over what’s safe

or hazardous. Still, there’s value in

research that allows you to feel as if

you’re making better decisions as a

more informed consumer, she says.

Humphrey agrees that resources like

the Skin Deep database “come out guns

blazing against many cosmetic ingre-

dients that, if used in small amounts,

have been shown to be safe.” In the end,

it’s best to talk with your doctor about

anything on a label you’re worried

about, so you can work through your

concerns together.

WE HAVE QUESTIONS...

Captain

Blankenship

Mermaid Sea

Salt Hair Spray

creates beachy

texture with a

minimal ingredient

list that includes

sea salt, aloe

vera gel and rose

geranium essential

oil. $20, sephora.ca.

Q: Is it true that 60 percent

of what we put on our

skin gets absorbed into

our bloodstream?

A: File this under

fearmongering. Contrary to

popular belief, the idea that

everything—or a great deal

of anything—we apply

topically goes right into our

bloodstream is overstated.

“The skin is a barrier, and

there are many layers,” says

Ivana Knezevic, cosmetic

science professor in the

School of Biological Sciences

and Applied Chemistry at

Toronto’s Seneca College.

While some ingredients may

have the ability to absorb to

a certain degree, there are

many factors involved,

including what the molecule

is, how much and where it is

applied, and the condition

of the skin. The actual

absorption rate could be

zero or it could be higher,

but the reality is more

complex than a scary stat.

Q: What is greenwashing?

A: Greenwashing refers

to advertising a product

as natural, green, organic,

non-toxic or clean in a

misleading way. All of these

terms are unregulated, so

brands can defi ne them

loosely. For instance,

“organic” means that

ingredients are produced

without the use of

pesticides, but loophole

alert: The FDA and Health

Canada don’t require beauty

products to have a minimum

percentage of organic

ingredients to make that

claim. Products that are

certifi ed organic by a third

party off er a bit more

transparency. In order for

the U.S. Department of

Agriculture (USDA) to certify,

say, a skincare cream as

“organic,” it must have at

least 95 percent organically

produced ingredients.

If it’s USDA-certifi ed as

merely “made with organic

ingredients,” the threshold

is 70 percent.

30 CHATELAINE • APRIL/MAY 2019

style BETTER BEAUTY