FCSIP134.pdf

FINECOOKING.COM 89

A clean grill means less sticking

It’s always a good idea

to start with thoroughly

cleaned and oiled grill

grates. That way, there’s

no flavor transfer from

the last thing you grilled,

and foods are less likely

to stick to the grates. To

clean the grates, heat

them first to soften the

stuck-on gunk and then

scrub them with a stiff

wire grill brush. Next,

fold a paper towel into

a little pad, grasp it with

long-handled tongs, and

dip it in some cooking oil.

Quickly swab the grates

with the towel, clean-

ing and oiling them at

the same time. Repeat

this step until the grates

seem clean, and then

cover the grill briefly

to let it heat up again.

If you’re grilling some-

thing that tends to stick,

like fish, give the grates

another swipe of oil just

before the food goes on.

TECHNIQUE

How to make a better burger

Grilled burgers, like the Herbed Aïoli Burgers on p. 57, tend to
bulge in the center as they cook because their edges contract
from the heat, leaving the center nowhere to go but up. They
often look misshapen and cook up smaller than the bun, and the
thicker center takes much longer to cook than the edges, which
can become well done and dry in the meantime. Rather than flat-
tening the burgers with a spatula, which presses out all their lovely
juice, try forming your burgers a little differently. Begin by making
a flat patty that’s ½ to 1 inch wider than the bun, since shrinkage
is inevitable. Next, make an indentation in the middle of the patty
with several fingers so that the top is concave. This way, when the
center bulges, it will end up being about the same thickness as the
edges and the burger will cook more evenly.

TIP

INGREDIENT

Black garlic purée

A purée of black garlic is used to flavor a yogurt dipping

sauce that pairs with Charred Octopus on p. 50. (The

garlic’s color and deep molasseslike flavor result from a

2- to 3-week fermentation process.) While chefs make

their own, we found a jarred purée that was quite tasty

(see Sources, p. 93). Beyond the yogurt sauce, a little

would add depth to a soup or stew.