Model Engineers’ Workshop – July 2019

(Chris Devlin) #1
15


Cross-slide Leadscrew


July 2019


Key


19.

15.

3.

3.

be cut: 12mm diameter x 2mm pitch
metric trapezoidal, and 10mm diameter x
1mm pitch metric. The latter pitch, whilst
not being a standard metric thread, is a
standard spark plug thread for which taps
and a die are available, and hence were
purchased and used. For the trapezoidal
thread I decided to make my own
screwcutting tool from an old fi le, photo 2.
Many readers will own a screwcutting
gauge: mine is by Moore & Wright, and
although it covers a variety of thread forms
and angles, it does not cover the metric
trapezoidal thread. I therefore decided to
make my own from a piece of 1mm thick
steel by marking two converging 75 degree
lines from one of the sides thus giving an
included angle of 30 degrees. The area
between the two lines was carefully fi led
away, and a short saw cut made at the
junction of the two lines in which the point
of the tool could sit, photo 3. Note that to
aid setting of the tool in the lathe, each pair
of opposite sides were made parallel to each
other and perpendicular to the other pair.
I could now carefully grind my tool until
the top of the tool exactly fi tted between
the jaws of the cutout. For this particular
size and pitch the end of the tool should be
ground to 0.598mm, that is, the width of
the root of the male thread. Measuring this
is diffi cult with only basic tools, so what I
did was to set the micrometer to 0.60mm,
then compared the tool tip to the gap
between the anvils. Possibly not the most
accurate way of setting the tool tip, but the
best I could do. I then did a trial cut on a
piece of scrap bar of the correct diameter;
and promptly broke the tool!
Following a regrind, I attempted another
trial cut by feeding the tool in very gently,


starting at 0.2mm infeed, then 0.1mm,
and fi nally 0.05mm as the cut deepened.
Another author suggested that the sides
of the cut should be shaved by the tool by
moving it very slightly to one side of the cut,
followed by moving across to the other side,
all by using the top-slide. This resulted in
yet another tool breakage, so that idea was
abandoned in favour of straight in and out.
Ultimately, I successfully cut the full
thread and kept deepening the cut until the
existing leadscrew nut could be run the full
length of the screw.

Order of work
Start with a length of 16mm diameter bar
slightly longer than required to allow for the
ends to be faced to the correct length. Place
the bar inside a 4-jaw independent chuck
with about 10mm showing, and using a dial
test indicator (dti) set the bar for minimum
runout, face the end and drill a centre.

Reverse the bar and repeat, but this time
reduce the bar to the correct overall length
whilst facing the end.
Now pull out the bar from the chuck
until about 150mm is projecting from the
chuck and using the dti set for minimum
runout adjacent to the chuck jaws. Note
that it may be advantageous to use the
tailstock with a dead centre to provide
some gentle support for the outlying end
of the bar whilst adjusting the runout. On
completion, lubricate the dead centre and
apply the tailstock to securely hold the bar
in place. The bar is now ready for turning
and threading.
First reduce a length of 138.25mm (as
measured from the end of the bar) to 12mm
diameter using a knife tool. Change the
knife tool for a narrow square ended tool
(I use my parting off tool) and create the
5.50mm wide x 9.30mm diameter thread
runout groove. Now replace the narrow
tool with the trapezoidal threading tool,
using the screwcutting gauge to ensure
correct orientation of the tool, engage
the appropriate changewheels, and start
cutting the thread.
The minimum speed of my lathe is
125rpm which is far too fast for cutting
short threads hence for short threads I
normally use a mandrel handle, however,
as using a mandrel handle on this length of
thread is very tiring, therefore I used power
drive. Unfortunately, this then introduced
another problem in that the inertia of the
lathe drive system means that the lathe
takes an appreciable time to come to a halt
once power is cut. Thus, it is necessary to
cut power at a point where the tool will just
run into the thread runout groove. Easier
said than done! So much so that I found

Fig.


2


Trapezoidal cutting tool.

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