Model Engineers’ Workshop – July 2019

July 2019 71

Cutter Grinder

Ø35

32

Ø35

Ø25.4

Recess Ø30 x 2 deep

13

M4

M4

12

10

M6

Knurl

Drill Ø6

6 deep

Drill Ø4.2mm

Ream Ø10

Ø15

Drill for M6, c/bore

Ø6.5 x 22 deep

Ø6.6

Ø10 x 40 with

2 spanner flats

M6 x 8

Ø25.4

25

12

12

10

24

12

12

10

15

Detent Carrier

Mount

Cap

Post

Carrier Block

Components For Slitting Saws

Nut

then the secondary clearance had been
taught a lesson and was in the correct
place. So a long piece of 25 x 6 bar was
set at the correct angle in the mill vice
to make a tapered wedge, then it was
cut to length from the stock material.
Photograph 13 shows it in place. The
result is now very satisfactory, photo 14,
so the need to reset the tilting bracket
angle is removed. You may need to modify
the wedge angle on your machine, I would
suggest the use of drills stood vertically
at the end of the top plate fence then it
will be a simple calculation to determine
the angle the wedge needs to be cut to. I
can assure you the use of the wedge is a
great time saver especially when a group
of drills are being worked on.

Equipment for grinding
slitting saws
The parts in fig. 4 are all simple
components and require little description
except the setting plate. Start with the
mounting pillar. This has a central M6

tapped hole, the shoulder position should

be higher than the fence, and the spigot

should be a close running fit on the bore

of the slitting saws. Loctite a stub of M6

in the bottom and tap a matching hole in

the base plate. For the detent arm, I used

redundant fittings which came with one

of my DRO kits. The detent itself is the

end of a hacksaw blade with the teeth

ground off and uses the already drilled

hole in it for mounting.

The setting plate is used to set the

saw square to the wheel and getting the

detent into the correct position prior

to setting the clearance angle with the

rotating head. It is a job for the mill, so

clamp the 1.5mm steel sheet (don’t profile

it yet) on plywood on the table, with what

will become the wide end of the plate on

the left. The final Y axis table movement

must be towards you. Drill and bore the

central hole to match the mounting pillar

using a boring head. Fit an 8mm slot

drill and move the spindle 4mm towards

you putting the edge of the slot radial

to the bore. The radial slot can now be

cut to form the setting window, taking it

close to the central hole to give a better

view of the setting in use, (mine is a bit

too far away). Machine the left edge

now to ensure it is at right angles to the

window. In the photograph you will see

another slot in my plate, I had thought

this would be needed for a sliding clamp

to temporarily fix the plate to the saw, but

it wasn’t needed. Cut the angles which will

clear the wheel guards and check on the

grinder. Clearly mark on both sides of the

plate which is the radial window edge.

zTo be continued

Fig.4