Woolworths_Taste__January_2019

(Nancy Kaufman) #1
TRAVEL

NAMIBIAhasalwaysbeen
definedbytheNamib,whichtranslates
as“vastplace”,anamegiventothis
coastaldesertbytheindigenousNama
people.IthasalsobeencalledtheLand
GodMadeinAngeranda“sh*thole
country”byacertainUSpresident.
It’sneverbeenrankedhighasafood
destinationthough,whichisstrange
whenyouknowwhatIknowabout
theculinarydelightsonoffer.
Let’s start in the coastal town of
Lüderitz.AwhiteHollywood-stylesign
onthehillsidewelcomesmetothisodd
little outpost, which I’ve chosen for two
reasons. Number one is the deserted,
much photographed, diamond-mining
townofKolmanskop.Standinghereat
dawn,earlyrayssparklingoffthesand,
it’seasytoseehowNamibiaearned
itsname.Whatusedtobeabustling,
wealthytownhasbeenreclaimedby
thedesert.Iwanderthesandyruinsand
wonderhowaghosttowncomesto be –
what made everyone disappear?
T h e G h o s t Tow n To u r o n l y s t a r t s
at9.30amsoIorderacupofcoffee
topped with a sweet foam spray of cream,


andafreshlybakedlemonmeringue
pieinwhatusedtobeKolmanskop’s
Champagne Bar. This is breakfast,
ghost-town style.
Later,onthetour,Ilearnthatthefirst
diamond was discovered here in 1908
and exploitation of these glittering dunes
started immediately. The first miners
built the impressive village, sandwiched
betweentheseaandthesand,replicating
the architectural style of a traditional
German town. There was a ballroom,
school, bowling alley, casino and even
anicefactory.Backthen,inthemiddle
ofthedesert,youcouldfindthesouthern
hemisphere’s first X-ray station, ice and
Champagne. And the last two go perfectly

with the second reason for visiting.
From ghosts to gourmet ... modern-
dayLüderitzistheplacetogetyour
fix of Namibia’s non-indigenous but
delectable oysters. Oyster farming started
inthetownalmost30yearsagoandthe
molluscsarenowoneofNamibia’sbiggest
exports. Luckily, not all of them leave
thecountry.Youcanalsoenjoythem
direct from the source (a.k.a. the local
Seaflowerfactory)atthehumbleDiaz
CoffeeShop.Here,inasmallbackroom
linedwithawallofwinebottles,chairs
fashionedfromoldorangebuoysand
tables made from disusedkreeftraps,
youcanindulgeyouroysterfantasies
atanaffordableR11apop.Eachshell
holdsaperfectmorselalongwithalittle
clearliquor,theofficialnameforoyster
juice.Ieasilyswallow10,seasoned
withjustadashofTabasco.
Themenualsooffersavarietyof
cooked oysters, loaded with butter and
garlicorchilli,plussomeincredible
calamari.Aplateoftender,perfectly
grilled rings seasoned with lemon and
blackpepperandservedwithchips
will set you back a mere R25.

Sunrise views over the edge
of the Namib Desert from the
Dune Star Camp.

108 TASTE JAN/FEB 2019


“It’s easy to forget
you’re in the
desert when you’re
devouring platters
of oysters with
a good South African
Chardonnay”
Free download pdf