malaysian living
Hoist the Colours of
Semporna’s Bajau
THE LITTLE COASTAL TOWN OF SEMPORNA IS AN OBSCURE DESTINATION IN THE GREAT LAND OF
SABAH, AND ITS MANY SURROUNDING ISLANDS ARE HOME TO SEA GYPSIES KNOWN REGIONALLY
AS THE NOMADIC BAJAU.SARAH ANNE LEEVISITS THIS HIDDEN GEM OF AN AREA ON ITS MOST
BUSTLING DAY: THE REGATTA LEPA, WHEN THE BAJAU CONGREGATE FOR THEIR BIGGEST CULTURAL
FESTIVAL THROUGH THE DISPLAY OF TRADITIONAL BOATS THAT OFTEN DOUBLE AS THEIR HOMES.
T
ravelling into the
port of Semporna,
where most of
its more modern
buildings stood,
was a journey in
itself. Just under
a (bumpy!) hour’s
drive from the airport in Tawau, the
sights along the way were filled with
wooden houses on stilts–an oddity for
they were nowhere near watery ground.
The local tour guide explained that this
architectural strangeness came from
habit despite the inhabitants living out a
landlocked life.
A usually sleepy town, Semporna was
filled with life since the beginning of
the week in preparation for the region’s
biggest cultural celebration. Our weekend
arrival put us right smack dab in the
middle of the revelry, just a day before
the official celebration commenced. Many
temporary stalls formed a bazaar along
the harbour, selling many street food
favourites likecucur(deep fried sardine
dough balls), pre-packed Malay-style
spiced chicken rice, and local drinks
like iced milk tea and rose milk known
as bandung.On regular days, the square
would be a business locale of fishermen PHOTO CREDIT ASYRAF
NAQIUDDINspecies of giant clam found in the world,
and that dolphins could be seen in the bay
during certain seasons.The boating tour, run by divemaster
Alexander Ho of Semporna Scuba then
took us to the nearby Bodgaya Island,
where a group of aboriginal Bajau people
maintain their sea-dwelling settlements.carting around tubs of extremely fresh
catches of prawns, crabs, and lobsters in
an uninterrupted daily routine.We were treated to a wonderful sight of
locals in their many boats travelling to
and from the nearby piers and islands,
either on daily business or leisure trips.
The tour guide noted that the part of the
jetty we had lunch at was mostly for the
locals, and that a tourist-centric jetty was
on the further side of the town.Our first tour stop was the fantastic Bohey
Dulang Island, one of Tun Sakaran Marine
Park’s most stunning formations. The
mountainous island was the result of
volcanic activity, and popular for offering
a breathtaking view at the peak of its
hiking trail. Unfortunately, we arrived on
an overcast day which, while good for the
40-minute boat ride that took us to the
island, rendered the trail unclimbable due
to wet weather conditions earlier in the
day. Nevertheless, the little exploration of
the island’s tiny giant clam rehabilitation
centre, and the sights of crystal clear
waters filled with an abundance of sea
urchins, sea cucumbers, and multitudes
of coral fish around the wooden walkway
made up for it. It is exciting to know that
Semporna waters actually have all seven