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Airbrush olive grun pattern on the outsides
then highlight the edges of each panel with
silver. Now dry-brush the front panels with
steel paint to show road wear from high brush
and such.Apply a primer to each side of the skirts. Once
dry, add the brackets bolted to the outside.
These are also made of Evergreen strip styrene.
Cut a small strip to size and add some Grandt
Line bolt heads to finish the look.Here are my newly shaped panels. Note: If your
panels come from different yogurt lids, be sure
to shape them out of similarly colored and
textured lids — that way you’ll avoid
unwanted discrepancies.10
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Next, take a pin vise and select a bit to yield
holes in the skirt, worthy of any anti-tank
gunner’s efforts. You may also want holes on
the other side. A hobby knife widens and
pushes in shards of skirt steel.
Test-fit the hanging rail to the tank hull. If
adjustment is needed, you can either jockey
the hangar around a bit or make notches in
the rail you just glued onto your panels.
Now you can carefully shape the square
pieces of foil around the skirt’s irregular edges.
Move slowly and gently to shave away the
excess edges.
Light brown on the lower panels mimics
spotty road dust. Finally, a generous punch of
black into the shell holes adds realism. With its
scale-thin Schürzen complete, I nestled my
Stug into Silflor’s meadow grass. FSMHere I have airbrushed Testors Model Master
dunkelgelb on both sides. Do not be concerned
about small dents, scratches, or other
imperfections. Those shabby spots will blossom
into some excellent-looking battle damage!Fashion the hanging rail out of 020-inch
Evergreen strip styrene. Flip the panels over
and lay the rod exactly as you see it on the
plastic skirt. Super glue it down and keep its
position because, once it hardens, you own it!