NewZealandWoman’sWeekly 63
PHOTOS: KYLIE HALLM
y lastrealvisittothe
beautifulGardenCity
wasin 2012,a yearafter
theearthquakesthatrockedthe
foundationsandheartsof
Cantabriancommunities.Fast
forwardto 2019 andthebuzz
ofthe“new”is allaround.New
pathways,newmarketsand
newhotelssproutasconstruction
crewscontinuetherebuild.
StrollingtowardstheAvon
River,I passtheremnantsof
floraltributeslaidfollowingthe
Marchmosqueattacks.Signs
notethatthenow-deadflowers
willbecompostedtosupport
newplantlife,a nicewayto
honourthetributes.
Carryingwarmthoughtsfor
thosewhohavesufferedand
survivedthetragediesofthis
finecity,I stepintothequaint
AntiguaBoatSheds.
There,I’mgreetedbymy
punter,whowillhopefullykeep
usoutofthesun-dappleddrink
asweexploretheAvon.
Fluffyducksfeedalongside
asweroamthetranquilwaters.
Theflat-bottomboatdesign
thankfullymakesfora very
stablecraft,andanyworries
ofanunintendedswimquickly
disappear.Intricatelydesigned
bridges,viewsofthecity’s
botanicgardensandwonderful
weepingwillowsareonshowas
wepuntonby.I giggleatthe
contrastofmypunterdressed
in fullEdwardiangarb,while
I’mwearinga brightbluepuffer
andfluoro-pinkheadscarf.
Offtheriver,thehop-on,
hop-offconvenienceofthe
ChristchurchTramprovidesthe
perfectwaytoseetheinnercity.
I disembarknearCathedral
Squareandsavoura zingy
Moacideratthespeakeasy-
style OGB bar.Frombehinditsfenceline,
theChristChurchCathedral,
nowbeingrestoredafterthe
2011 quakedamage,callsto
me.I standstaringata huge
gapingholein itsroof.It maybe
broken,butit’sstillremarkably
beautiful– andresilient.With
foundationscompletedway
backin 1865,thisiconicbuilding
hasenduredmorethanfive
earthquakes,andstillit stands.
Mypenchantforallthings
tastyhasmesalivatingona
stoolatMexicano’s.Takingmy
server’srecommendation,I wrap
mymoutharoundoneofthe
mostscrumptiousmorselsever
totouchmylips– a soft-shell
tacobrimmingwithslow-roasted
lambshoulder,salsa,cabbage,
andchipotlemayo.Mytaste
budsarehavinga party,and
thecelebrationcontinueswith
a dessertofcaramelpopcorn,
organicbananaandsalted-
caramelicecream.Bliss!
Aftera restfulsleepatThe
George, I jump into my rentalcarandheadsouthwest,witha
stowaway– GeorgetheBear,a
souvenirfromthehotel.
I arriveatPeelForestHorse
Trekkingand,withthecalm
confidenceofguideAlyssa,
managetolaunchmyselfonto
lovelyTorque’sstrongand
sturdyback,withoutfalling
straightofftheotherside!
Wemeanderdownhillsides,
alonggrassywetlandsand
acrossemeraldrivers.The
sceneryis spectacular.My
mum,anex-showjumper,
wouldbeimpressedwith
thesehealthyhorses,andthe
ideaofa multi-daymumand
daughtertrekbeginstobrew.
Oncebackattheyard,we
feedourtrustysteedsandgive
thefluffyandfriendlyMaine
Coonhousecata bigsmooch.
AsI headoffintothe
sunset,GeorgetheBearis
bymyside,readytoreinstate
measnumber-onemumwith
thedaughterbackhomeafter
my refreshing city break.Horse-trekking
is a sereneway
toenjoythe
region’s scenery.Meetingthelocals
atPeelForestand
(below) the Avon River.Finewaystotravel:
Thehistorictram,and
(above)punting
uniformslinedupand
ready for service.