Texas Monthly – August 2019

(やまだぃちぅ) #1

that serrano crema. Seafood options include a fluffy
flour tortilla wrapped around fried shrimp with
crushed salt-and-vinegar chips, while veggie possibil-
ities include a taco with fried portobellos, pico de gallo,
and queso fresco. Fried onion strings, fresh jalapeño
sauce, sliced avocado, and bacon jam are among other
additions. Look for that bacon jam in the three-cheese
queso, laced with chiles and served with crispy french
fries or tortilla chips. Cold-brew coffee figures among
good sipping options. Beer, wine & margaritas. 517
University Dr (817-945-1234). B, L & D Mon–Sat. $


FLORES BARBECUE SSSS
NEW Barbecue | After drawing record crowds at


his Whitney location (a TM Top 50 choice), Michael
Wyont relocated to Cowtown and parked a beautiful
new trailer near Mellow Johnny’s at the Trailhead at
Clearfork. Sitting beside the Trinity River, the trailer
wows its new audience with post oak–smoked brisket,
ribs, house-made sausage, pulled pork, and that mirac-
ulously supple turkey. One of the better surprises is the
carnitas taco, served in handmade flour tortillas with
squiggles of lush salsa verde. House-made pickles
show care for detail, and banana pudding takes us back
to grandma’s kitchen. The trailer will stay put till late
spring 2020, when Flores’s brick-and-mortar cantina,
smokehouse, and grill opens a few feet away. 4801
Edwards Ranch Rd (254-580-3576). L Thur–Sun. $$


SILVER FOX SSS
UPDATE Steaks | Cool, pleasantly darkish, and re-


done with clean, contemporary lines, this standby near
TCU feels new again. An easygoing dinner at the bar
(where friendly bartenders make solos feel welcome)
starts with a trio of sautéed jumbo scallops, silken disks
just browned at the edges, perked up with squeezes of
charred lemon, and drizzled with butter laced with pico
de gallo. Large onion rings crusted in beautifully gold-
en-brown jackets dipped into chipotle-lime ketchup are
sinfully good, on par with the lobster bisque, topped with
scallion hush puppies and laced with a little sherry. For
something slightly virtuous, the III Forks Salad (from
the same-named sister restaurant in Dallas) does the
trick with Granny Smith apple slivers, crumbles of Dan-
ish blue cheese, toasted pecans, and baby lettuces in
maple vinaigrette. Bar. 1651 S. University Dr (817-332-
9060). D Mon–Sat. $$$$


Houston


BLOOD BROS. BBQ SSS
NEW Barbecue | The queue for ’cue is the sign of


success, and this acclaimed Bellaire spot already has
long lines of eager fans. We arrived Wednesday at 1:30.
“Turkey breast only,” they announced. Fine! We love
smoked turkey breast, and BBB’s version is thick-sliced
and juicy, with pepper-coated skin. The peppery house- wineandfoodweek.com


he 15th Anniversary celebration of Wine & Food Week, presented by
H-E-B, concluded in The Woodlands with a $5,000 check presentation
and final closing ceremony capping off an extraordinary week of culinary
and winemaking achievement. More than 10,000 foodie friends, celebrity
chefs and winemakers from across the U.S. raised a glass in honor of this
annual food fete. All total, the week featured 50 accomplished chefs, 92
restaurants, 928 wines, numerous educational seminars, and various culinary
events ranging from taco takedowns to the H-E-B Wine Walk and culminating
in the elegant Wine Rendezvous Grand Tasting & Chef Showcase.

Pictured left to right: Clifton and Constance McDerby, Founders, Wine & Food Week; GOYA Chef of Chefs
Grand Prize Winner Brandon Silva, Wooster’s Garden; Tony Unanue, Chef Fernando Desa and Tommy
Unanue all with GOYA Foods. Description of the winning dish: a braised beef short rib with fermented
cauliflower and fresh shaved summer black truffles.

Left to right: Tim Hanni, Master of Wine, Author of Why You Like the Wines You Like; Mike Warren, Director of Grocery
Procurement, H-E-B Houston; John Moeller, longest-tenured White House Chef, Executive Chef/Owner State of Affairs
Catering: Constance McDerby, Founder & Co-Producer, Food & Vine Time Productions; Clifton McDerby, Executive
Director, Wine & Food Week; Guy Stout, Master Sommelier, CWE, CSS, Corporate Director Beverage Education,
Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits; Joe Casiano, Senior Marketing Manager, H-E-B Houston Division.

#WFW2019

TEXAS MONTHLY 117
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