mozzarella, prosciutto, and salami, but the crisp and
edgy house-made jardinière is inspired. We adore the
bracing rigatoni combo of Calabrian peppers and
roasted eggplant dotted with ricotta salata, all lus-
ciously draped with an artfully balanced tomato-vodka
cream sauce. Amid an impressive variety of pizzas, we
remain besotted with the Vespa, thick with pear, pro-
sciutto, and Gorgonzola and burnished with another
balsamic flourish. All quite the setting for the bearable
sweetness of doing nothing. Bar. 3402 E. Del Mar Blvd
(956-568-3536). L & D Tue–Sun. $$$
Rio Grande Valley
MARCELO’S, PORT ISABEL SSS
UPDATE Seafood | Visitors now have a new dining
destination in the shadow of the Port Isabel lighthouse.
Marcelo’s, once a casual Italian restaurant, is now an
upscale spot for seafood and steaks. And though we will
miss the classic calzones and pizzas, we will have no
problem getting used to the new menu and the remod-
eled candle-lit dining room. We enjoyed our halibut en
papillote so much that we went back for Sunday brunch
to check out the brisket benedict with Hatch chile hol-
landaise. We weren’t disappointed. Bar. 110 N. Tarnava
(956-943-7611). L Mon–Fri. D 7 days. B Sat & Sun. $$$
San Antonio
FEAST SSS
UPDATE New American | Feast made its name
with chilled-to-grilled small plates (and there are still
plenty of sharable bites) but has recently transitioned
to a more traditionally conceived and plated menu. Our
waiter said Feast sees more of a neighborhood crowd
these days (it’s in historic King William), and the of-
ferings have been tweaked for that audience. An early
Goodman & Bowers venue, the glam, glitter, and shine
of both the dining room and the spacious patio are still
on trend, while menu options remain global in scope
with such offerings as hearty ancho chile–roasted
pork and spicy hot-and-cool green harissa–spiked
mussels. The standout of our meal was the dish with
meatballs and mushrooms with a bit of bright pickle
relish and fresh dill, fitting for the historically German
area. Service is somewhat erratic, but the entertaining
ambience—Lucite chairs, faux taxidermy, blue LED
lights in motion—makes up for it. Bar. 1024 S. Alamo
(210-354-1024). D Tue–Sat. B Sun. $$$
THE GUENTHER HOUSE SSS
UPDATE American | Here’s the how-to: arrive
early or bring a book to read while you wait in the
shade. If an outdoor table isn’t available, take one in-
side the charming historic house (taking a minute to
appreciate the amazing tile floors), and get thee to the
baked goods as soon as possible. Guenther House is
part of Pioneer Flour Mills (you sometimes hear the
machinery running while you dine), and the house-
branded products take center stage. Fluffy biscuits,
waffles, and pancakes are all worth your attention, but
don’t overlook the chicken salad, with its creamy may-
onnaise and black olive dressing. Or the Champagne
Chicken Enchiladas: chicken and cheese wrapped in
just-made flour tortillas and baked in a cham-
pagne-chicken gravy. Tourists and locals alike all find
their floury fix here (the wise get a bag of cinnamon
rolls to go). Plentiful parking too. 205 E. Guenther
(210-227-1061). B & L 7 days. $$$LIBERTY BAR SSSS
UPDATE Eclectic | The sisters who once lived in
this historic convent (now painted tropical pink) would
recognize the thick limestone walls and the simple
Texas pine tables, but the eclectic menu is decidedly
modern. Date-night late-night drinks are seasonal and
numbered (the No 5 spring cocktail, for example, fea-
tures tequila, St-Germain, and crème de violette), while
the free-spirited menu offers appetizers like a fine chile
relleno en nogada and a goat cheese plate with sweet,
heady piloncillo sauce. Daily specials are a bargain at
lunch. Overall, the menu merger of Elizabeth David’s
English sensibility (there are fresh-baked loaves at
every meal), Southern pies and cakes, and borderlands
stews makes for a hearty, comforting meal no matter
the time of day. Bar. 1111 S. Alamo (210-227-1187).
L Mon–Fri. D 7 days. B Sat & Sun. $$$ROSARIO’S NORTH SSS
UPDATE Mexican | This near–Loop 410 location
(others are downtown and at the airport) honors Ro-
sario’s mission of trend-setting Mexican food paired
with solid traditions from both sides of the border. For
starters, try the paquetes (thin-sliced jicama wrapped
around fried shrimp); ceviche bright with lime, oregano,
and serrano chiles; and the seafood cocktail, sweet and
tomatoey. And have the chips and roasted-chipotle
salsa with everything. If your entrée—perhaps rich,
earthy mole enchiladas—offers Rosarios’s finely shred-
ded coleslaw side, enjoy its tart-sweet, almost pickled
flavor. Or go with a more unusual offering: excellent,
tender tongue (lengua en salsa). The big, bold dining
room features tables spinning out from a central glitzy
bar, all the better for a round of margaritas. Expect a
place bustling with family gatherings, birthday parties,
office outings, and date nighters. Bar. 9715 San Pedro
Ave (210-481-4100). L & D Mon–Sat. $$$SAWASDEE SS
UPDATE Thai | Pad thai is our go-to at Thai restau-
rants, and Sawasdee offers a satisfying rendition: gin-
gery, lots of thinly sliced chicken, mushrooms, carrots,
onion, and bell pepper, spiced to your liking with incen-
diary red Thai peppers. The depth of flavor in the saucecomplements the dish’s crisp freshness. Extensive veg-
etarian dishes are available too, notably the soups and
the vegetable tempura. And there are lots of more com-
plex dishes too, like a roasted duck curry and a whole
fried trout topped with your choice of sauces. An unas-
suming but neat strip center spot, Sawasdee attracts
neighbors from Castle Hills and a steady lunch crowd too.
6407 Blanco Rd (210-979-9110). L & D 7 days. $Tyler–Longview
CAFÉ BARRON’S SSS
UPDATE American | Café Barron’s has long been
a favorite. Feeling reckless, we started with an order
of hand-cut Parmesan truffle fries. Then we continued
in the same vein with the Cajun flounder roulade, the
fish layered with a crab and cream cheese mixture, and
the veal piccata, its tender meat and caper-and-lemon
mushroom sauce a perfect combination. We were so
taken with the excellent fare that we did not even think
of perusing the attached gift shop. Instead we gave the
excellent crème brûlée our undivided attention. Bar.
405 W. Loop 281, Longview (903-663-4737). L Mon–
Fri. D Tue–Sat. B Sat. $$$DUDLEY’S CAJUN CAFÉ SSS
UPDATE Cajun | One need not cross the Louisiana
line to enjoy authentic Cajun food. As crawfish season
was just beginning when we stopped by this Cajun
diner, we started off by sharing an order of fried tails.
A younger diner was happy with her fried chicken ten-
ders, good-naturedly deeming them “just a little bit
spicy,” and the rest of us split a build-your-own sea-
food platter, contentedly feasting on fried catfish,
shrimp, oysters, and crab cakes along with hush pup-
pies and a side of coleslaw. Expect a wait for weekday
lunch and weekend dinner. Bar. 1601 E. Marshall Ave,
Longview (903-757-9466). L Mon–Fri. D Tue–Sat. $$MARIO’S SS
UPDATE Italian | A visit to Mario’s feels like a trip
back in time to a late-fifties New York Italian joint. “Old
school” is an understatement that applies to the aura,
the food, and the entertainment, with crooners per-
forming Rat Pack hits for an audience sitting at check-
ered tablecloths feasting on bruschetta and pasta
dishes in heavy cream sauce. Our vegetarian friend
was happy with her eggplant Parmesan and side of
sautéed mushrooms, and those of us who shared a
pepperoni and anchovy pizza were equally delighted
with the thin crisp crust, rich marinara, and generous
allocation of cheese. Bar. 7916 S. Broadway Ave, Tyler
(903-581-2309). D Mon–Sat. $$VILLAGGIO DEL VINO SS
UPDATE Italian | VDV’s new chef, Rogelio Tellez,
has changed the course of this mostly Italian eatery,TEXAS MONTHLY 119