in more of the Italian aesthetics, which paradoxically
makes me connect more with my Parisian roots.’
It is perhaps the undeniable camaraderie between
both designers that made for a critically acclaimed
debut show last February in which the womenswear
and menswear was combined, a first for Ferragamo.
The collection – impeccably-cut trousers, cosy
knitwear, silk foulard dresses, woollen ponchos and
an array of luxurious leather and shearling outerwear,
with workwear accents for the boys and nods to
Netflix’s The Crown for the girls (‘I’m obsessed with
that series,’ says Andrew) – laid the foundations for
a refreshing new direction and a much needed sense
of cohesion. And it all started with the menswear.
‘Guillaume had done such a good job of bringing
a consistency to his collections and defining the
Ferragamo guy, so it felt natural to go from there,’
says Andrew, who admits to buying almost every single
menswear piece. ‘We started doing fittings together,
having the female models wear some of the boys’
clothes and vice-versa,’ adds Meilland. ‘Soon it became
about creating this all-encompassing wardrobe.’
But it was also about locating and reviving the
spirit of the brand’s founder. As Andrew says, ‘The
first thing I did when I started here was to read
Salvatore’s biography and visit the Ferragamo shoe
archive’. After rummaging through thousands of
shoes, the conclusion was clear. ‘Ferragamo was such
an innovator, and he didn’t let tough times limit
his creativity. When he couldn’t find metal to craft
his heels, he started working on cork platforms.’
And it’s that pioneering spirit that the duo want toemulate, both paying homage to the defining moments
of Salvatore Ferragamo’s career and reimagining them
for the 21st century. The rich palette for the A/W18
collection was inspired by the legendary Rainbow
platform, created in 1938 for Judy Garland (‘or rather
by what we imagined the colours of the shoe would
have looked like back then. They were all natural
pigments and are incredibly faded today,’ says Andrew).
Meanwhile, the season’s shoe was inspired by an
archive discovery. ‘We came across this square-toe,
block heel sandal called the Lucente. It was so modern
I thought someone had put it in there by mistake.
Turns out it was designed in 1930,’ says Andrew. Both
designers went on to rework it for a client. ‘We ended
up sending it to an Italian car factory for galvanising,
and it came back with this beautiful golden metallic
finish. Very futuristic.’ Immensely covetable, too.
So is the existing Ferragamo customer ready
for the future? ‘I think he is,’ says Meilland. ‘He’s
been changing organically in the last few seasons.
Then again, men tend to be practical and appreciate
timelessness, quality and comfort over everything
else. It’s kind of a given.’ Is it more challenging
to design for women? ‘Not necessarily,’ says Andrew.
‘The Ferragamo woman, whatever her generation,
shares a lot with the man. She is just as practical
and loves comfort, which is why I’m focusing so
much more on low and middle heels than sky-high
ones. She appreciates timelessness and craft. It’s
about modernity rather than mere trends.’ We’re
pretty sure Salvatore Ferragamo would agree. ∂
ferragamo.com‘Ferragamo was such an innovator,
and he didn’t let tough times limit his creativity’
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO’S
MENSWEAR DESIGN DIRECTOR
GUILLAUME MEILLAND AND
WOMENSWEAR CREATIVE
DIRECTOR PAUL ANDREW
PHOTOGRAPHED AT PALAZZO
SPINI FERONI IN MAY∑
Fashion
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