SET DESIGN: MATTHEW MORRIS WRITERS: LAUREL IVES, ELLIE STATHAKIdoes break down the gluten, and some
customers who once shunned gluten are
now eating my bread.’ Influential US
bakery Tartine (based in San Francisco
but soon to open in that epicentre of
clean-eating, Los Angeles) has been at it
for a while, embracing many different
ancient grains, stone grinding its flour in
the traditional way, and using sourdough
in everything. ‘Traditionally, croissants,
baguettes and brioche don’t contain
sourdough, but we use it to make them
more digestible,’ says Tartine founderBread has taken a bit of a battering
from the wellness warriors in recent
years, but new bakeries are starting to
pop up producing healthy, gut-friendly
loaves and triumphantly rebranding
bread in the process. Take the spelt
sourdough from Bread by Bike in Kentish
Town, north London. It’s made from
wholemeal stoneground spelt that
has been fermented for 48 hours to
create a gut-friendly, delicious bread.
Owner Andy Strang says, ‘I’m careful
about health claims, but a long fermentChad Robertson. Also in LA, Lodge
Bread grinds its own flour on site and
makes healthier fermented pizza bases.
In the UK, Modern Baker in Oxford is at
the forefront of the trend, focusing on
‘slow-carb baking’, which creates bread
with a lower glycaemic index, and it
has recently won a substantial grant
to research the health benefits of
bread with Newcastle University. It’s
a development we’re happy to toast.
breadbybike.com; tartinebakery.com;
lodgebread.com; modernbaker.comGRAIN SUPREME
The latest trend for fermented, gut-friendly breads may
turn out to be the greatest thing since, well, sliced breadSTAGE SHOW
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