The Upland Almanac – July 2019

UA Bird Dogs - Health Matters

Dr. Hank Clemmons

First-Aid Kit:

User-Friendly Tips

A

ssembling a first-aid kit for a hunting dog is easy

if you know what to buy and where to buy it.

Knowing how and when to use the equipment is as

important as having it on hand.

The kit you carry should reflect your training

and skill level. Before facing any emergencies, you should

familiarize yourself with the use of the medications and

items in it. Also, it’s always a good idea to develop a good

working relationship with your vet. Such a connection is vital

to gaining access to some of the more advanced items and the

training in using them.

But first ... let’s learn how to use some of the items we

stocked our first-aid kit with based on my most recent column

(Summer 2019).

Essential Items

Phone numbers – As previously mentioned, keep handy

the numbers of your vet, veterinarians in the areas

where you’ll be hunting, as well as the nearest 24-hour

emergency hospital; Pet Poison Help Line, 855-764-

7661; ASPCA Poison Control, 888-426-4435.

Slip leash – This helps control an injured or frightened dog,

doubles as a makeshift muzzle (see “Bird Dogs – Health

Matters” Spring 2019).

Eyewash (saline solution) – Red eyes, tearing eyes,

squinting or closed eyes should be flushed with copious

amounts of sterile saline or eyewash; small foreign

bodies can cause big problems if left in the eye.

Eye ointment – Your vet can prescribe a nonsteroidal

ointment. If you’re buying over-the-counter (OTC), look

for an artificial tears-type ointment. Never put in the eyes

any ointment that is not labeled as ophthalmic. And never

use ointments containing steroids without first consulting

a veterinarian.

Gauze pads/squares – These can be used to apply pressure

to stop bleeding and also to clean and cover wounds.

They can help remove foreign bodies from eyes.

Bandaging material –

• Vet Wrap-type vet bandages are self-adhering stretch
  wraps. You can find these online or anywhere large
  animal supplies are sold, such as Fleet Farm, Tractor
  Supply or local feed stores. Avoid putting these on too
  tightly: Doing so can cut off circulation. You should be
  able to easily slide a finger under any bandaged area.


• ACE bandages are available at any drugstore. Consider
  getting some in 3- and 6-inch widths. If their little

claw-type fasteners aren’t doing the job for you, safety

pins will work as a good replacement.

• A compression bandage is basically heavily padded
  material wrapped tightly around a wound to stop bleeding.
  Once bleeding has stopped, the bandage should be
  loosened. They are marketed commercially as the “Israeli”
  bandage. You can make one of your own by applying the
  following components in the following order:
  
  
  • Gauze pad(s) – This is the first layer and protects the
    wound.
  
  
  • Clean towel – Washrag and hand towel sizes usually fit
    in most kits.
  
  
  • Plastic (Saran) wrap – Adjust the pressure of the towel
    over the wound with this. Plastic wrap can also be
    used to help stop air from entering a penetrating chest
    wound and collapsing the lungs.
  
  
  • Vet Wrap or ACE bandage – Since tape and plastic
    wrap do not play well together, add this layer to give
    the tape a place to stick.
  
  
  • Tape – Use either white medical or duct tape to secure
    the bandage. Duct tape can also serve as a waterproof
    barrier on bandaged feet.
  
  
  
  

On penetrating chest or abdominal wounds, the plastic

wrap should go on first (directly against the dog) to seal

out air and then be covered with the padding and tightly

secured.

Cotton swabs (Q-tips) – In addition to removing foreign

bodies from eyes and ears, these can help in cleaning deep

puncture wounds.

Disposable gloves – I suggest having these handy because dirty

hands carry lots of bacteria.

Small needle nose pliers – These are great for removing larger

splinters and porcupine quills.

Small side-cutting pliers – These can help to treat broken or

torn toenails or to remove wires wrapped around a leg.

Wound irrigating, flushing or oral syringe (turkey baster

works great) – Use to flush and clean wounds with saline

solution or to administer liquid oral meds, fluids when

combating dehydration or hydrogen peroxide to induce

vomiting.

Wound-cleaning soap – Soap and water is the best wound

cleaning combination. Chlorhexadine (Nolvasan, Hibiclens)

and tamed iodine (Betadine) are excellent skin cleansers.

They are available in two forms, solution and scrub (sudsy).

Both are good, but suds scrub better and help remove

deeply embedded dirt and debris. Dish soap (Ivory, Dawn)

also works well.

Blood-stopping agent (powder, gel, styptic pencil) – For light

bleeding, not deep wounds, apply sustained pressure for 3

to 4 minutes.