2019-04-01_Food___Wine_USA

(Nancy Kaufman) #1

98 APRIL 2019


Orange Mostarda
PHOTO P. 70
ACTIVE 1 HR 40 MIN; TOTAL 10 HR 40 MIN
SERVES 10

A long simmer yields tender orange rinds
that give this spiced condiment a super-
jammy texture.

1 lb. Cara Cara oranges (about 2
oranges), unpeeled, cut into 8
wedges each
3 cups granulated sugar, divided
11 / 2 cups water, divided
1 Tbsp. mustard seeds
1 Tbsp. fennel seeds

(^1) / (^2) bunch fresh thyme (about (^1) / (^4) oz.),
tied with kitchen twine
5 bay leaves



  1. Stir together orange wedges, 2 cups
    sugar, and^1 / 2 cup water in a medium bowl
    until combined. Cover and let stand at
    room temperature 8 hours or overnight.

  2. Transfer orange mixture to a medium
    saucepan. Add mustard seeds, fennel
    seeds, thyme bundle, bay leaves,
    remaining 1 cup sugar, and remaining 1
    cup water; stir to combine. Bring to a boil
    over medium-high. Boil, stirring
    occasionally, until liquid becomes syrupy
    and orange wedges become translucent,
    about 1 hour and 30 minutes. Remove
    from heat; let cool completely, about 1
    hour. Remove and discard thyme bundle
    and bay leaves. Store, covered, in
    refrigerator up to 2 weeks.


Confit Kugel Wedges
PHOTO P. 76
ACTIVE 45 MIN; TOTAL 3 HR 45 MIN
SERVES 12

Hillary Sterling leans on schmaltz to crisp
these kugel wedges; we opted for rich
duck fat. A drizzle of vincotto, made from
grape must, punctuates the rich kugel
with its sweet, tangy bite. For Sterling’s
chicken liver mousse recipe, see foodand
wine.com/vics-chicken-liver-mousse.

3 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 large fennel bulbs (about 12 oz.
each), thinly sliced (about 3 cups)
1 large yellow onion (about 14 oz.),
thinly sliced (about 3 cups)
3 medium garlic cloves, minced
(about 1 Tbsp.)

(^3) / 4 cup duck fat or chicken fat, divided
12 large eggs
6 Tbsp. white rice flour or finely
ground matzo meal (about 2 oz.)
(^1) / 2 cup Saffron-Soaked Golden Raisins
(recipe follows), divided
2 Tbsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. freshly ground fennel seeds
(optional)
2 Tbsp. vincotto or aged balsamic
vinegar
11 / 2 cups store-bought or homemade
chicken liver mousse
Fresh basil leaves



  1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Shred potatoes
    in a food processor fitted with the
    shredding attachment. Place shredded
    potatoes on a clean towel; wring out
    excess liquid. Place towel with potatoes in
    a fine wire-mesh strainer inside a bowl;
    place a small skillet on potatoes to weigh
    down. Set aside.

  2. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium.
    Add fennel and onion; cook, stirring
    often, until tender but not browned,
    about 10 minutes. Add garlic; cook,
    stirring constantly, 1 minute. Remove
    from heat; transfer mixture to a large
    heatproof bowl.

  3. Grease bottom and sides of a 9-inch
    round cake pan with^1 / 4 cup duck fat.
    Remove potatoes from towel; discard
    drained potato liquid in bowl. Stir
    potatoes into fennel mixture. Add eggs,
    flour,^1 / 4 cup raisins, salt, pepper, ground
    fennel seeds (if using), and^1 / 4 cup duck
    fat; stir to combine. Spread mixture in
    prepared cake pan; place on a rimmed
    baking sheet.

  4. Bake in preheated oven until top of
    kugel is crispy, about 45 minutes. Remove
    from oven; let cool in pan completely,
    about 2 hours.

  5. Preheat oven to 425°F. Spread
    remaining^1 / 4 cup duck fat in a rimmed
    baking sheet. Remove kugel from cake
    pan. Cut into 12 wedges, and rub cut sides
    of each kugel wedge in duck fat on baking
    sheet to coat. Arrange wedges in an even
    layer on baking sheet.
    6. Bake at 425°F until wedges are crisped
    and browned on cut sides, about 20
    minutes, flipping once after 10 minutes.
    7. Drizzle wedges evenly with vincotto;
    sprinkle with remaining^1 / 4 cup raisins. Top
    each wedge with about 2 tablespoons
    chicken liver mousse; garnish with basil.


Saffron-Soaked Golden Raisins
ACTIVE 5 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 5 MIN
MAKES 2 CUPS

Soaking raisins in vinegar plumps them up
and adds a pop of acid to the rich kugel.

2 cups apple cider vinegar
1 cup golden raisins
Pinch of saffron (about 15 threads)


  1. Bring all ingredients to a boil in a
    saucepan over medium-high. Remove
    from heat; let cool to room temperature.

  2. Drain raisins, and discard liquid. Chill,
    covered, until ready to use, up to 1 week.


Oven-Fried Baby Artichokes
PHOTO P. 77
ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 30 MIN
SERVES 8

Baby artichokes can be found in well-
stocked grocery stores; look for spring
onions in Latin supermarkets.

3 cups (24 oz.) dry white wine
3 cups water
3 Tbsp. olive oil

(^1) / 2 bunch fresh thyme (about (^1) / 4 oz.)
3 bay leaves
2 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
16 fresh baby artichokes
(about 2^1 / 2 lb.)
7 Tbsp. canola or grapeseed oil,
divided, plus more for baking
sheets
16 spring onions (about 20 oz.), halved
lengthwise
1 tsp. black pepper, divided
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice (from 1
lemon)
(^1) / 4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Lemon-Caper Aioli (recipe follows)



  1. Stir together wine, 3 cups water, olive
    oil, thyme, bay leaves, and 1 tablespoon
    salt in a large saucepan. Working with 1
    artichoke at a time, trim and discard top


(^1) / 2 inch from artichoke. Remove and
discard dark outer leaves. Peel stem using
a vegetable peeler or paring knife. Cut
trimmed artichoke in half lengthwise;
A SEDER TO SAVOR from p. 79

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