refrigeration. Cutting back on fridge
use might seem difficult, but it is pos-
sible. I speak from experience. After
reading a 2017 article about how other
cultures refrigerate less, I tried unplug-
ging my fridge. I didn’t think I could
make it a day, but, using a combination
of tactics, including fermentation and
effective shopping, I made it three
months. My next try lasted nearly seven
months. Now, on my third try, I’m a
week short of making it a full year.
Josh Spodek
New York City
1
MORE THAN MAPS
Louis Menand’s observation that our
government “does not reflect the popu-
lar will” gets at the heart of many of
America’s current problems (A Critic at
Large, August 22nd). But partisan ger-
rymandering, the phenomenon that he
focusses on, is only partly to blame. The
U.S.’s use of single-member congressio-
nal districts is also a major factor. Be-
cause of their winner-take-all structure,
single-member districts inevitably make
it more difficult to select a House whose
composition is proportional to voters’
preferences. Consider that, in a district
that is fifty-one-per-cent blue (or red),
a given party secures a hundred per cent
of the representation. In California, where
an independent commission has all but
eliminated partisan gerrymandering, the
state’s current congressional delegation
is nearly eighty-per-cent Democratic,
despite Democrats’ having won only
sixty-six per cent of the vote. Changing
to a system that allows for multi-member
districts, in which seats are allocated pro-
portionally to votes, would go a long way
toward creating a House that better rep-
resents the wishes of the public.
Grant Tudor
Washington, D.C.
TOO COOL
Nicola Twilley, in her piece about Rwan-
da’s valiant effort to widen access to refrig-
eration, acknowledges many of the obsta-
cles standing in the country’s way while
also conveying the hope that creating a
cold chain will improve the predicament
of its smallholder farmers (“The Cold
Rush,” August 22nd). My fifty years of
experience in international-development
work, some of them spent in Rwanda,
have given me a more pessimistic view.
The economic situation of smallholder
farmers is on a downward trajectory al-
most everywhere in the world. This is in
part because, in the world’s economy,
scale is paramount, and being able to get
more product to market is unlikely to
mean more than a slight increase in in-
come for small farmers, who can produce
only so much. A more dismal sign is the
fact that few small farmers’ children want
to follow in their parents’ footsteps. Aid-
agency projects intended to improve food
storage and decrease costly waste—en-
compassing everything from promoting
coöperatives to providing warehouses
and technical innovations—have had few
lasting results in the past several decades.
More often than not, aid agencies’ and
governments’ need to get money out the
door quickly, combined with local fac-
tors, makes progress difficult.
Thomas Dichter
Provency, France
Twilley’s report brought to mind Amer-
icans’ almost unlimited use of refriger-
ation. In the U.S., about a quarter of
households have two or more fridges.
Compared with many other countries,
we also have longer supply chains, less
fresh produce, and more pollution from
transportation and packaging; we also
have overburdened electrical grids and
an abundance of unhealthy, heavily pro-
cessed products in our diets. One way
that Americans could help people in
developing countries is by reforming
our own system so that we pollute our
shared world less. We could make it
easier to run farmers’ markets here,
thereby reducing our overreliance on
•
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