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LAMBRETTAGEAR
SELECTOR OVERHAUL
Theproblem with the Lambretta gear selector system is that there are
several areas where wear can occur,sometimes making it difficult to
operate.Stu looks at how we can fix these issues.
W
hen Innocenti designed
the Lambretta, its
styling was compact and
enclosed. Part of the
process was to position
the gear change system on the handlebars.
Though, in theory,this madechanging
gear easier than the traditional foot control
method, it did create its own set of
problems. Most of these issues stem from
the fact that there are far more linkage
points, which can all suffer from wear.By
the time you actually get to the gear
selector in the engine, this ‘loose play’
can have been greatly exaggerated, the
result being severe play on the handlebar
control itself. Even if the gear cables
themselves are in perfect condition, each
part of the system needs to be checked
and overhauled where necessary.
Handlebars
Working along the chain of linkage points,
it starts with the handlebar gear change.
The first place to look is where the rod end
goes into the gear changer housing. Up
until later series three models, this was a
thin fixed end, which fits intoanarrow slot
on the housing. Problems arise from wear
to the slot on the housing. The only real
solution to repair it is by welding it up and
creatinganew profiled slot. This isn't easy
as the steel is thin and will need grinding
out. If you do attempt this repair,theslot
must go back into its original position,
otherwise the gear numbers will be out of
position and by aligning them the clutch
lever would then be out of its natural
position.Tomake sure it is in line, scribe
amark along the length of the steel level
with the slot so you know where to cut a
new one afterwards. It has been known for
the rod and housing to be welded together.
The problem with doing this means that if
you need to remove the rod for any reason,
then the clutch cable will also have to be
removed as it has now become one piece,
so this repair isn't practical. On the later
series three models, this system was done
away with and replaced byanylon end
that sits inamuchwider slot.
The nylon end wears over time around
the split pin that holds it in place, causing
play.This can easily be changed foranew
one, but always replace the split pin as
well, as that can become worn where it
goes through the rod.
The other end of the rod holds the cable
pully in position. The earlier slot type uses
abrass wheel, which is held in place on a
series of splines on the rod itself. This is
secured in position byapinch bolt and
wear is virtually unheard of. The pinch
bolt can come slightly loose so may need
tightening up.Ta ke great care if doing so
as the bolt can easily snap in the pulley
and it is almost impossible to extract,
meaning you will requireanew one. On
later models that use the nylon pulley
system, it uses the same method of
locating byasplitpin. Again over time,
This fixed type gear changer rod was used from series one right up until later series three models.
Above Left:On the other end sits the brass gear pulley,which is held in location byaseriesofsplines. Great
care should be taken when tightening the pinch bolt as it is easy to overtighten and snap it off.
Above Right:Later series three models used the nylon end to sit in the gear changer body,but it is prone to
excessive wear over time, althoguh it is easy to replace.
92 |SCOOTERING|AUGUST2019
