F UL L COV ER AG E
For decades, a significant portion of our
global population has been roving the
shopping aisles searching for makeup that
actually reflects their skin tone. Finally, the
beauty industry is recognising that
the stock-standard “light/medium” and
“medium/dark” shades are perfect for no
one. Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty is arguablythe biggest agent for change in this area,
launching in 2017 with 40 shades of
foundation – a largely unprecedented
move which prompted overwhelmingly
positive feedback from buyers and incited
other beauty giants to extend their
complexion offerings as well. Now, 40+
shade ranges are becoming the new
industry standard, with major players such
as Maybelline, Estée Lauder and Dior
Backstage all showcasing extensive
shade selections. Recently, Benefit added
new shades to their Precisely, My Brow
Eyebrow Pencil offering for those with
auburn and grey arches, taking it to 12
shades – the most in the brow market.
Skincare has also long been considered
ignorant to the concerns of those with
melanin-rich complexions, and niche
beauty brands, such as the Afro Hair and
Skin Co. and the supermodel-founded
Iman Cosmetics, are stepping in to fill in the
gaps left by mainstream brands. As
consumers vote with their dollar, the
industry will continue shifting until beauty
products are made for all.GENDER INCLUSIVITY
Newsflash: women aren’t the sole
consumers of cosmetics – and several
beauty brands are acknowledging this.
In London, makeup artist Jessica Blackler
designs products for a wide range of
concerns. From acne to under-eye circles
and beard shadow, Jecca Blac has you
(and you and you) covered. US-based
Fluide describes its ethos as “makeup for
him, her, them, everyone”, with both
men and women modelling their playful
lipsticks on their e-commerce site.
In Australia, major retailers are investing
in genderless skincare (think neutral
packaging and fragrance); Priceline has
welcomed brand Non Gender Specific to
its shelves, while Myer has stocked
gender-neutral botanical skincare Asarai
since February this year. Meanwhile,
luxury makeup is becoming more inclusive
thanks to Mister from Givenchy and Boy
de Chanel by Chanel, both sending the
message that at their makeup counters
there’s room for everyone.UNIQUE APPROACH
In the past, fashion shows have been
criticised for tokenism, but The Fashion
Spot’s diversity report on AW19 suggests
it’s changing. It tracked 221 runway
shows and 7,300 model appearances,
revealing that 38.8 per cent of the models
were people of colour. Sure, an equal
number is preferable, but it’s a sizeable
improvement on previous seasons – more
than double at the spring 2015 shows.
The same report details the need for more
transgender and gender non-binary
models, but progress is being made. At
SS19, Louis Vuitton championed models
of gender ambiguity, while Opening
Ceremony had an all-LGBTQI+ cast and
crew, several RuPaul’s Drag Race alums
performed and models had drag-inspired
hair and makeup.GET THE MESSAGE
Progress is being made in advertising,
too. It was 25 years ago that M.A.C
released their campaign for Viva Glam
lipstick starring drag queen RuPaul
and openly gay singer k.d. Lang.
It was a controversial move concerning
conservative department stores at the
time, but highly successful and pioneering
for the beauty industry. In the subsequent
years, brands have continued to become
more inclusive. In 2014, Redken signed
Brazilian model Lea T, one of the first
transgender ambassadors for a big
beauty brand. Two years later CoverGirl
announced their first-ever CoverBoy,
17-year-old makeup artist and YouTuber
James Charles, breaking the boundaries
between men and mass makeup brands.
Gucci made headlines across the world
in May this year when creative director
Alessandro Michele released a
campaign that included close-up shots of
their new lipstick against “imperfect” teeth- a rare sighting, and one that serves to
further normalise perceived flaws.
Australia isn’t absent from the movement - Kérastase has announced transgender
model Andreja Pejic as the newest
Australian ambassador for their Blond
Absolu range.
FOR
ALL
OF
US
BY KATE LANCASTERFOCUS IS STARTING
TO SHIFT FROM A SINGULAR
IDEAL OF BEAUTY TO ONE
THAT ENCOMPASSES AND
CELEBRATES THE INDIVIDUAL.
THERE’S STILL A LONG
WAY TO GO, BUT IT’S
ENCOURAGING TO SEE
INCLUSIVITY BECOMING THE
NEW BEAUTY STANDARDPhotography: Sevak Babakhani (still-life)