epicure Indonesia – July 2019

(coco) #1
epicureasia.com 19

Premium produce has always been a non-negotiable trait of
Saint Pierre’s cuisine. Chef-owner Emmanuel Stroobant has
unveiled another luxury ingredient to accentuate his plates of
pleasure: Royal Belgian Caviar (RBC).
What makes the artisan caviar different from other
producers? Cédric Paquet, commercial manager of RBC, reveals
an industry practice. "90 percent of caviar in the market come
from a big traditional mother tin which goes to the distributor.
When the distributor receives various orders from chefs and
other clients, it will repack the caviar into smaller tins. The
transfer will cause some eggs to break. RBC extracts the eggs
from the sturgeon directly into the size of the tin that each
client wants - whether it's a 10g, 250g or 1 kg tin - so there's no
oxidised taste."
Most producers add sorbic acid to extend the shelf life of
caviar, but RBC uses only salt. Its yearly production is also kept
small (only five tonnes of caviar in 2018), so it doesn't come as
a surprise that even the most seasoned gastronomes and chefs
have not tried RBC caviar before.
Tasting is indeed believing and Saint Pierre’s special five-
course caviar menu ($388) showcases five grades of RBC caviar
as the star ingredients: Gold Label, Platinum Label, White Pearl,
Osietra and Beluga. Start off with the Hokkaido scallops sashimi


Caviar produced to order


and tartare served with Gold Label caviar, Aomori apples and a
moat of lait ribot. "The scallops and caviar provide sweetness
and salt respectively, while Aomori apples brings freshness and
crunchiness," says Stroobant. The second course, gamberro
rosso or wild red prawn, finds an ideal match in the slightly
nutty flavour and bouncy texture of Platinum Label caviar.
The most extravagant grade of caviar, Beluga, is delicate yet
buttery, and is featured in the third course, a confit of Sanriku
salmon in vanilla oil, poached blue lobster and foamy lobster
espuma. White Pearl caviar, a rare variety from the Albino
Sterlet sturgeon, stands out for its pearl-like hue, a contrast
on a black base of squid-infused ika strips in a warm leek
vichyssoise with roasted chopped hazelnuts. For Stroobant, the
White Pearl caviar was a pleasant discovery. "I love the colour.
It also has a reasonably fatty mouthfeel so you need a lean
product like squid to balance it," he adds. The popular Osietra,
whose shade can vary from olive to dark green, makes an
appearance in the final course: anako and ankimo accompanied
with watercress coulis; the latter's slightly bitter notes stand up
to the fattiness of the caviar.
The caviar menu will be available upon request and with an
advance notice of three business working days.
#02-02B, One Fullerton, 1 Fullerton Road. Tel: 6438 0887
Free download pdf