Photography by Kevin A. Roberts JULY 2019 STLMAG.COM (^) ýø
HIGH-STEAKS DINING
Morton’s
The Steakhouse
With the wealth of steakhouses
in Clayton (Ruth’s Chris, 801
Chophouse, The Capital Grille),
Morton’s announced in 2017
that it would be moving down-
town. The reimagined restau-
rant—a sleek modern departure
from its more traditional
predecessor—reopened at
Lumière Place Casino in Decem-
ber. Today, you can still find
steakhouse staples (a catcher’s
mitt–size piece of cow, lobster
bisque, and creamed spinach,
with all the starchy formalities)
in an atmosphere marinated in
swank. 999 N. Second.
BEST SPINOFF
BrassWELL
Gerard Craft can now add
brewery fare to his long list of
culinary achievements. The all-
star chef ’s Niche Food Group
opened BrassWELL in the new
Rockwell Beer Co. late last year.
Reinvented dishes from Bras-
serie’s happy hour and former
lunch menu include quarter-
pound burgers, chicken sand-
wiches, brats, and the signature
fries, which complement Rock-
well’s menu of microbrews. 1320
S. Vandeventer.
FITTING FRENCH
ADDITION
808 Maison
Soulard’s historic goût de terroir
is still, properly, French. Smoky
cassoulet and Burgundy-
braised lamb shank taste right
at home amid the cozy eatery’s
inviting old wood and brick.
Tables fill quickly, and good
wine, dispensed by the bar
squirreled into an intimate cor-
ner, flows. Conversation’s easy
in the relaxed atmosphere. It’s
a place in which to linger—and
one to revisit often. 808 Geyer.
BEST EDIBLE CANDLE
Hamilton’s Urban
Steakhouse
& Bourbon Bar
Best Edible Candle is always a
crowded field, but this year’s
award for Outstanding Edible
Centerpiece goes to this cool
steakhouse’s delectable light-
ing. A slab of solidified bacon
fat equipped with a wick is lit
and renders slowly as patrons
swipe hunks of coarse yeasty
bread through the fragrant
drippings. We’re talking the
most romantic candlelight din-
ing ever. 2101 Chouteau.
MUSSELS
Elmwood
It’s hard to mess up mussels—
and even tougher to create a dis-
tinctive take on them. Elmwood
scores, big time, with a bowl
of the bivalves that shimmers
with a smear of tingly Szechuan
spices. It tops (get this!) fresh-
fried shoestring potatoes. The
aroma alone is mouth-watering.
It’s a mélange of smoky, exotic
seasoning and those luscious fat
mussels. 2704 Sutton.
CREATIVE CUISINE
Savage
Creative? Savage left “creative”
back at the station. Think beet
chicharróns. Such ingredi-
ents as burnt hay, fermented
mushrooms, and roast yeasts
worked into amuse-bouche–size
courses come out over a long
evening. Electric wine pairings
add flair to one of the city’s most
amazing dinners. 2655 Ann.
BEST REINVENTION
J. Devoti Trattoria &
Grocery
The Hill’s hippest bistro has
been reinvented as, um, The
Hill’s hippest bistro. The
menu’s less Italian, more hearty,
with beautifully seasonal
American fare, including locally
sourced meats and rustic vege-
table presentations. The sauces
are brilliant. A focaccia bun
sprinkled with sea salt helps
make for a stunning burger.
Windows looking out
on a charming courtyard add
much to the experience.
5100 Daggett.
PIEROGI
Frisco Barroom
As soft and fluffy as a MyPil-
low, the pierogi at this always-
crowded joint are plumped with
either mashed potatoes and
caramelized onions or farmer’s
cheese, each sautéed in brown
butter. Think of ’em as glossy,
fat dumplings. Add a mug of
one of the place’s cold pils-
ners, and dinner is complete.
8110 Big Bend.
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