Charlotte Magazine – August 2019

42 CHARLOTTEMAGAZINE.COM // JULY 2019

OPEN SINCE FEBRUARY, The Dunavant

in South End has drawn attention for its

steak and bottomless fries dinner, which

costs only $25. Although the restaurant

o„ ers other menu options, as well as

weekend brunch, I’m really here to inves-

tigate the steak.

On this warm Tuesday evening in May,

diners sip drinks outside on the patio.

Inside, the décor is sparse, with no art-

work on the walls, but it still feels inviting,

with gold light ‰ xtures as accents. Two

groups are there to celebrate birthdays,

and a few couples are on dates. Solo din-

ers like myself sit at the circular grand bar,

located in the middle of the room.

I order a glass of Petite Syrah and peruse

the menu, with daily dinner specials like

scallops and chicken in addition to the

$25 steak and fries. Most other items on

the menu are meant to be shared, and

they’re broken into two categories: small

plates and not-so-small plates.

On the small plates menu are deviled

eggs served with bacon and a serrano pep-

per ($8), and stu„ ed oysters baked with

spinach, applewood bacon, garlic bécha-

mel, and hollandaise sauce ($12). On the

not-so-small plates side, the veggies are

the standouts. The roasted mushrooms

with green onions, garlic, and butter ($12)

and creamed spinach with Parmesan

($11) are rich without letting seasoning

overpower the plates. Be sure to ask about

the vegetable of the day, too.

For $25, the steak and fries meal PETER TAYLOR

FOOD+DRINK

When Chef Travis Hearne

(above, left) opened The

Dunavant in February, he

promised a quality steak

dinner for $25. (Above)

Black Angus sirloin steak

with chimichurri sauce.

REVIEW

LOWCOST,

HIGH STEAKS

Chef and owner Travis Hearne’s

steak and fries dinner tastes

more expensive than it is

BY ERIN BREEDEN

THE DUNAVANT

2322 Dunavant St.,

Ste. 200

(980) 335-0125

Entrées: $25+