JULY 2019 // CHARLOTTE 51
MAINE IS NOT SUBTLE about its lobsters.
Driving up the Atlantic coast on the eastern shores of
Vacationland, this “lobstah”—as the signs and billboards
beckon from right, le, in front of you, and behind you—is
the best in Maine. Until, that is, you drive just a moment
down the road and
nd the next “best” lobster in Maine.
Lobsters adorn keychains, postcards, T-shirts; they’re
blended into ice cream and painted on pillars. A 70-foot-
long inatable lobster sits atop Taste of Maine in Woolwich
to celebrate the restaurant’s 40th anniversary.
What’s not so brazen, but perhaps should be, is Maine’s cra beer market.
Though only eight states have a smaller population than this Northeastern state, only 17 states
have more breweries. Maine, with its 1.3 million residents, has more breweries than Alabama,
Alaska, and Mississippi combined. It has more breweries than Arizona, a state with more than
ve
times the people, and it tops Georgia, a state with 10.5 million people, by 37 breweries.
Maine does this even though more bears live in the vast majority of its northern reaches
than people.
All this is to say, Maine is a mecca for beer lovers, and Portland is its foamy, sudsy heart.
On a patch of land alongside industrial buildings on a street named—no kidding—Industrial Way,
Allagash Brewing, the widely distributed and most recognized brand in the city, has its main brewery
next to
ve others (Austin Street, De
nitive, Battery Steele, Foundation, and Casco Bay breweries).
Here, no signs inked in red block lobster-claw lettering yell claims about the best beer in Maine.
There’s barely a sign at all. At the end of Industrial Way, an ordinary, plain marquee sign lists all the
breweries down the road.
For one of the most widely recognized cra beers in the nation, this seems odd. The vibe at
the brewery matches, though: It’s an inconspicuous gem that’s hidden only to those too busy
eating lobster.
Outside the home of the extraordinarily simple and smooth Allagash White, visitors
nd a few
small patches of gravel and a group of wooden Adirondack chairs, a small covered patio, and no fuss.
Inside, it’s just as unassuming. The lineup is predetermined for the day, with straightforward
o¥erings like the White, Saison, and House. Allagash does make other beers, such as the Stranger and
the Crane, a cranberry saison, but they’re limited and not part of the regular rotation.
In any fashion, I came for the White, having ordered it in so many bars outside of Maine, and so I
take it outside to the porch to drink.
As the May evening cools, as it’s wont to do in Maine, we head to Portland’s downtown, pick up
some famous potato-our donuts, and then walk to one of the oldest breweries in Maine, Gritty
McDu¥’s, which opened in 1988. The charming brick building’s most obvious quirk is the collection
of ceramic mugs, all numbered on the bottom with black Sharpie, hanging from the ceiling. The
mugs aren’t kitsch; they’re someone’s property. Portlanders pay $75 per year to join the Mug Club
and claim a mug for themselves, which will always wait for them on the ceiling. In return, they drink
from the 21-ounce mugs but pay for only 16 ounces, plus receive other bene
ts during the year.
We don’t buy a mug; we don’t know when we’ll return to Portland, and there’s hardly room for
more among the hundreds of mugs, anyway. We do order beers, though, and head outside to sit
at one of the many picnic tables. The cool air carries the scent of lobster, and the beer goes down
with ease. —J.M.DO TRY PORTLAND’S COCKTAIL
SCENE
While Portland might be known for
its beer, its cocktails are also exquisite
and inventive. Both Bramhall and the
Bearded Lady’s Jewel Box (A+ name)
are musts. Bramhall is located in a
cavernous space below ground while
Bearded Lady’s Jewel Box has barely
any signage. Be on the lookout for
both. Bramhall: 769 Congress St., 207-
805-1978, bramhallme.com; Bearded
Lady’s Jewel Box: 644 Congress St.,
207-747-5384EAT THE HOLY DONUT
Maine potato donuts are very much
a force in Portland. Go to one of The
Holy Donut’s two Portland locations
to chow down on the u¥y desserts.
Various locations, theholydonut.comSTAY THE CHADWICK BED ®
BREAKFAST
Located in a charming multilevel
green home built in 1891, this bed
and breakfast o¥ers an array of room
sizes and amenities. Room rates run
from $150 to $350, depending on
season. 140 Chadwick St., 207-774-
5141, thechadwick.com
COURTE
SY
Keep
Portland
Hoppy
Going north for beer in
Maine’s Forest CityBEER TRAVEL PORTLAND, MAINE
The crisp and classic
Allagash White.ALLAGASH
WHITE
ALLAGASH BREWING
COMPANY
STYLE: A crisp Belgian Witbier
with a hint of spice
ABV: 5.1 PERCENT THIS!TRY