14
DISCOVERMAGAZINE.COM
Money Shot
A lucky moment leads to an iconic
photo of an elusive legend.
IT WAS HIGH UP ON THE PLATEAU OF TIBET
in Nepal in 2015 — a six-day mule trek away from
civilization — when Geraldine Werhahn took a photo
so iconic that it now graces the country’s 5 rupee note.
Werhahn, a zoology graduate student at the University
of Oxford, had finally spotted a wild yak.
Yaks are nothing short of legends in Nepal. The
domesticated variety of the bovine, which is smaller
than its wild cousin, is a cornerstone of the country’s
agriculture-based economy and is featured on the old
5 rupee note.
But no one had spotted a wild yak in Nepal in
nearly 55 years, despite a 2013 expedition for that
exact purpose, led by the Nepalese non-governmental
organization Friends of Nature. During an excursion in
search of wolves in 2014, Werhahn and her research
colleague Naresh Kusi caught a glimpse of what may
have been two wild yaks, but the animals disappeared
too quickly to confirm.
In 2015, the researchers were back and lucky enough
to find genetic proof of the animal. Kusi will soon
publish the research, but it was Werhahn who captured
the iconic shot. Here, she recounts the moment that
brought the legend of the wild yak back to life.
We’re in Gyau Khola, a valley high
up on the Tibetan Humla Plateau
in one of the most remote districts
of Nepal. We had been walking for
days over high mountain passes with
mules carrying all our supplies. But
the beauty of the place is worth all the
physical effort.
One morning, I rise before every-
one else to scan the landscape with
my spotting scope for any interesting
animal activity. Up the valley, more
than 9 miles away, I see a dark little
spot on the hill slope. My gut tells me
this is a wild yak again.
I wake up the camp. We quickly
have breakfast tea and start ventur-
ing up toward where I saw the tiny
black spot, which we could no longer
discern. We detour around the moun-
tain to sneak up close to the animal
before it can see us, and peek over the
last little rise in the slope. Not far away,
we see the majestic animal chewing on
a bunch of grass. Meanwhile, Naresh
and I take lots of pictures. But after a
few seconds, the yak notices us and
thunders away. We have no chance of
catching up, but we still break out into
cheers. What an exciting day — the
rediscovery of wild yaks in Nepal! And
as if to leave a present for us scientists,
the animal left fresh droppings.
Based on these amazing sightings,
and the DNA collected from the
dung, Naresh has developed research
materials meant to educate everyone
from the international scientific com-
munity to the locals on the status of
this animal in Nepal. — AS TOLD TO JOSHUA LEARN
IN HER OWN WORDS...
PERSONAL
G
E
R
A
L
D
I
N
E
W
E
R
H
A
H
N
/
H
I
M
A
L
A
Y
A
N
W
O
L
V
E
S
P
R
O
J
E
C
T
(
2
)
THE CRUX
During a 2015 excursion to Nepal,
University of Oxford wildlife
researcher Geraldine Werhahn
(inset) snapped this iconic shot of
a wild yak. The animal hadn’t been
spotted in Nepal for over 50 years.