Charlotte Magazine – July 2019

34 CHARLOTTEMAGAZINE.COM // JUNE 2019

KATIE RATH is a writer and lifelong adventurer who lives in Charlotte. ISTOCK; SHUTTERSTOCK 2

River downtown

draws throngs of

tourists, which can

be discouraging

until you take in the

rich smell of stewed

chicken and beans

that oats through

the windowless

storefront and into

the street. Ko-Ox Han-

Nah has only a dozen

or so tables, but table

sharing is encouraged.

Travelers and locals

exchange stories and

become fast friends.

On the second day of my week-long trip, I take the free river ferry—hand-cranked by

a couple of locals—to Xunantunich and explore the Mayan archaeological site’s well-

preserved ruins. The rocky climb to the top of 130-foot-tall El Castillo, Xunantunich’s

highest point, lacks guardrails, but the 360-degree view of the Belizean and

Guatemalan jungle is worth every trepidatious step. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot a black

howler or spider monkey perched on the ruins or swinging in the trees.

I’M A VACATION RESEARCHER HOBBYIST. Before a trip like this one, I spend hours

preparing. I read every travel blog I can ‘ nd, hunting for tips on how to spot local ora

and fauna, what kind of local delicacies to try, and how to ‘ ght o’ a jaguar if I happen

upon one in the jungle. Before I arrived in Belize, I (naively) thought I knew everything

I needed to.

But beyond the lush jungle of San Ignacio and the smells of rich recado rojo spice

mix, there’s the stunning coastline around the island of Caye Caulker and a country

that’s much more than those blogs suggest.

A snorkeling expedition owner known around the island as “The Caveman” has

guided tours for more than 30 years. He tells me that Caye Caulker is “the island of

love.” That love extends past the island across all of Belize—even you, Belize City—to

all people who call it home and make it feel like home for anyone who visits. A blog

can’t prepare you for that.

Belize’s official

language is English,

which makes it

easier to explore

beyond Belize City

(above).

(Below) Mangrove

trees peek out of

the water in Caye

Caulker.

STAY

San Ignacio Resort Hotel

This luxury hotel is a short walk from

the best restaurants and produce

markets in San Ignacio, and it’s home

to the Green Iguana Conservation

Project. You can take a guided tour

to feed the iguanas or laze by the

pool and watch for toucans.

EAT

Mincho’s

You won’t • nd a menu online, but

this cheap takeout food is well

worth a stop. Order Belizean foods

like salbutes and panaches. Burns

Avenue, San Ignacio

Errolyn’s House of Fryjacks

Fryjacks, a Belizean specialty, are

delicate fried dough pockets stu— ed

with ham, eggs, cheese, and black

beans. I tried them at four places,

and Errolyn’s were my favorite. Top

with local Marie Sharp’s hot sauce.

Avenida Langosta, Caye Caulker

Ice and Beans Café

This beachfront café o— ers a variety

of co— ee drinks, smoothies, and

bagel sandwiches. Don’t leave with-

out a bag of their mini donuts. Front

Street, Caye Caulker

DO

Caveman’s Snorkeling Adventures

Join island guides on full- or half-day

snorkeling tours. Swim with • sh, sea

turtles, and nurse sharks, and keep

your eyes peeled for manatees.

cavemansnorkelingtours.com

THE GOOD LIFE

Cave Tubing at Caves Branch River

Dozens of tour groups o— er

full-day excursions, many with

ziplines or lunch additions. Try

for a Monday or Friday, because

Tuesday through Thursday are

busy cruise-excursion days.