Charlotte Magazine – July 2019

(John Hannent) #1

46 CHARLOTTEMAGAZINE.COM // JUNE 2019


REVIEW

A Fresh Serving of


Concord’s Past


Modern cuisine with a side of history at 44 Mills Kitchen + Tap
BY TAYLOR BOWLER

ON ONE OF THE FIRST WARM AFTERNOONS
of the year, my husband joined me at 44 Mills
Kitchen + Tap, in the A­on Ridge Shopping
Center at exit 52 o† Interstate 85. It’s an unlikely
spot for a restaurant whose name is a nod to
the 44 textile mills that operated in Cabarrus
County from 1829 to 2001, because nothing
about a strip mall says “history.” But when I
heard about this new restaurant in Concord
serving standout food, cocktails, and cra­ beer, I
had to investigate.
Our server seated us at a long, high-top table
made from a thick slab of reclaimed wood.
The right side was devoted to burgers and
sandwiches, large supper plates, and entrée-
sized salads. We opted for the le­ side, which
had an assortment of small plates and “bar
snackage,” so we could try a few di†erent dishes.
We started with an order of mini biscuits

and ham ($6), a plate of three mini buttermilk
biscuits stu†ed with thin-sliced country ham
and drizzled with honey. The two-bite starter
was delectable, but we came to the table
famished, so it was hard to tell if that žrst plate
was truly magical or if our hunger pangs had
temporarily lowered our culinary standards. We
pressed on.
The street tacos ($7.50), stuffed with
barbecue smoked pork, Mexican street corn,
kidney beans, and farmer slaw, were heavy
on the slaw and light on seasoning, but the
presentation on a custom charcuterie board,
created by Cut Chop Serve, elevated the dish far
above the level of a food truck taco.
Next, the charred cauli¡ower and Brussels
sprouts ($7): The crispy vegetables, coated in
sage butter, came topped with smoked pork
belly cubes, toasted cashews, and a fried egg. PETER TAYLOR

FOOD+DRINK


44 MILLS
KITCHEN + TAP
6189 Bay†eld Pkwy.,
Concord
704-787-9655
44mills.com
Entrées: $14-$19+

Mini buttermilk
biscuits and
ham drizzled
with honey.
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