the gurgling rapids at the mouth of the Richelieu River stands
17 th-century Fort-Chambly, now a National Historic Site of
Canada, where, along with a history lesson, I tasted naturally
fizzy spruce beer and a (then) novel New World commodity
— chocolate.
The Richelieu is a broad and beautiful stretch of water,
bordered by fertile farmland and the enchanting Auberge
Handfield. Louis-Robert Handfield’s ancestral farmhouse, built
in 1850, offers a traditional Quebeçois experience that includes
gourmet dining. The number of luxury motor yachts berthed
at the inn attest to its popularity among those accustomed to
the finer things in life. Dinner in the cosy parlour, with rustic
beams and twinned stone hearths, was a celebration of local,
seasonal fare, including a cocotte of braised field mushrooms;
catch of the day (halibut) with a garlic flower coulis and tender
farm vegetables (parsnip and carrots); homemade coffee cake
with maple-flavoured buffalo yogurt and fresh berries. A meal
here, with gracious Handfield hospitality, is worthy of a day
trip from Montreal (less than an hour away) or as the raison
d’etre for a longer stay.
Ferme Guyon in Chambly is a brilliant place to discover the
sheer abundance of local ingredients available in this part of
the province. A huge selection of artisanal foods, produce,
charcuterie, cheeses, ciders, wines and beers fill a warehouse–
sized retail store. Sébastien Dion (scion of the Unibrou beer
empire) has developed a multifaceted agritourism attraction
that includes horticulture, an animal petting barn and a
butterfly habitat. There’s also a classroom that keeps alive the
traditional skills of butter churning, breadmaking, beekeeping
and weaving.
A white butterfly — flitting, intently, from flower to flower
— welcomed me to Le Fruit Défendu, a pretty little gîte on a
country road in Rougemont. Life partners Dominique Guénette
and José Calloo have turned an ancient yellow farmhouse
(with a magnificent vintage cookstove) into a charming
boutique inn and restaurant. My table d’hôte lunch, on a
terrace surrounded by fields of corn and sunflowers, reminded
me of halcyon days spent in France. From José’s kitchen came
vegetable soup with warm, crusty bread; pork loin, roast
potatoes and a compote of apples and berries; and a salad of
baby arugula, pickled cucumbers and cherry tomatoes, all
borne to the table by Dominique. The finishing touch,
Rougemont apple crumble, was as sweet and warm as the lazy
afternoon.
Those same Rougemont apples are the foundation of
nearby Michel Jodoin Cider House, where fourth-generation
grower Michel Jodoin produces a beautiful, bone-dry, blush
pink cider that drinks like a rosé wine. In addition to still and
sparkling ciders, the cidery produces a gorgeously syrupy
apple liqueur (good over ice cream) and a Calvados-type
apple brandy, aged 3 years in oak barrels.Eastern Townships
The Eastern Townships (Cantons de l’Est) are picturebook
pretty, with quaint villages and historic towns tucked into a
scenery of lakes, mountains and rolling foothills. Panoramicviews unfold one after the other as the land stretches toward
the borders of Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine. The
region is famous for its vineyards, local produce and farm-to–
table restaurants.
Chef Ugo-Vincent Mariotti is the wizard in the kitchen at
Auberge West Brome. Nestled in a green valley, this tranquil
country resort has a fireplace in every room and a full service
spa. The restaurant is a destination it itself, occupying a turn-of
the century farmhouse with a potager garden that grows 80
varieties of organic vegetables and herbs.
Dinner began with Quebec mushrooms, topped with a soft
boiled egg, caviar and shavings of fabulous Pied de Vent
cheese from Fromagerie La Station in Compton. Guinea fowl,
cooked rare and crowned with foie gras, came with pillows of
gnocchi and more lovely mushrooms in a rich jus. A bottle of
St Pépin Swenson from Vignoble 1292 in Saint-Blaise-sur-
Richelieu was uncorked — and enjoyed. An artfully smeared
dessert involving chocolate, ice cream, assorted crumbly bits
and summer fruits rounded off a memorable meal.
More sweet treats at Musée du Chocolat in the historic
village of Bromont. This garden of guilty pleasures is stocked
with bonbons, pralines, truffles and bars from around the
world, plus an eclectic collection of chocolate paraphernalia
and memorabilia. An all-day brunch menu is on offer — the hot
chocolate (made with melted milk or dark) is not to be missed.
The Eastern Townships’ Cafés de Village network is a
collection of owner-operated cafés serving simple good food
with an emphasis on local ingredients. At Les Trois Grâces in
Eastman, seated on a sunny patio surrounded by oversized
pots of fragrant herbs, I had an epic sandwich of Lake Brome
duck confit, and farmhouse bacon with greens and mayo in a
wonderful, crusty bun. A golden lager from Brasserie Dieu de
Ciel washed it down.
If you’re in this neck of the woods, don’t miss Vignoble le
Cep d’Argent just outside the town of Magog. Brothers
François and Jean-Paul Scieur are sixth-generation
winemakers from France. A visit to their winery is a unique
opportunity to witness the traditional méthode champenoise.
Twelve hundred bottles are racked and turned by hand four
times a day. Disgorgement (removal of dead yeast after the
second fermentation) is also done by hand — a messy
business in anything less than expert hands. The resultant
wines are elegant and refined — true champagne in everything
but name.
Sherbrooke is the hub of the Eastern Townships and a busy
college town located on the Magog River, about half an hour’s
drive from Coaticook Gorge. At night the gorge is transformed
into the spellbinding Foresta Lumina. Holograms and
interactive sound and light installations create a mythical
forest inhabited by spirits and fairytale characters — a magical
experience for both young and old.
At the entrance to the park is Coffret de l’Imagination, a
quirky mashup of gift shop and restaurant. More duck confit
on the menu here — this time in a warm salad with asparagus,
raspberries, almonds and a tangy, creamy dressing. A blonde
beer from Coaticook Microbrewery was a happy pairing.62 TAST E&^ TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL^ APRIL–JUNE 2019
C A N A D A
ROAD TRIP QUEBEC