Lucap – Agoo – 111 km
After backtracking the thirty-five kilometres to the junction, I ventured in a
northerly direction along the coast—past small villages revealing fascinating-
looking churches, furniture makers and crab sellers. Like the previous day, the day
offered easy riding and the slight headwind was a blessing in the heat. My path
crossed a multitude of rivers and interesting and ingenious fishing methods.
Vendors were selling clams, oysters, dried fish, fresh fish, crabs, and just about
anything the sea could produce.
On reaching the tiny village of Agoo, featuring a basilica, the town looked good
enough to overnight. However, finding a guesthouse was more difficult than
anticipated. The few kilometres cycled to the beach revealed just one dilapidated
and overpriced establishment. I returned to the village searching for a “Transient
Room”; a room by any other name was for only a few hours and for a completely
different purpose than I had in mind.
Eventually, a place sporting a restaurant was uncovered. Starving, I rushed to a
nearby restaurant. The waitresses, decked out in their Christmas hats, appeared
somewhat wary of me and I suspected I was their first western-looking client. They
kept their distance as they took my order and I had an overwhelming desire to go
“Boo!” (making claws and big eyes). But, being far too hungry, I refrained from any
such behaviour as I thought it entirely possible I wouldn’t see them or my food
again.