SUPER QUICK AND
EASY TO MAKE – HANDY
WHEN YOU CAN’T FIND
THE RIGHT BAG TO GO
WITH YOUR OUTFIT
Fold-over Clutch
9 Lay one of your opened-out outer/
lining pairs out, right side up, and lay
the other right side down on top so
that the outers are together and so
are the lining pieces.
10 Pin all the way around the edges,
then sew with 1cm seam allowance,
leaving a 6cm gap on one of the
lining’s edges.
11 Trim across each of the corners
diagonally within the seam allowance
and close to the stitching to reduce
any excess seam bulk.
12 Turn your bag right side out
through the gap that you left. Sew
up the gap by machine (don’t worry,
it’ll be hidden inside the bag) or you
can sew by hand for a neater finish.
13 Tuck your lining down into your
outer – and don’t forget to remove
the pins holding the handles down.
14 Pin and top stitch around the upper
edge of the bag, about 3mm in from
the edge, to hold the layers together.
Adding a pocket:
Take your pocket piece and, in
a portrait position, fold it in half
vertically with right sides out. Press
the fold. Line up the raw (not folded)
shorter edges with the bottom of
your outer bag piece and tuck the
long vertical sides under the webbing,
re-pinning as needed to hold it in
place. Now repeat step 3 from the
previous page, sewing the webbing
in place and securing your pocket
at the same time.
YOU WILL NEED:
75cm medium-weight canvas fabric
50cm stiff, fusible interfacing
1m faux suede cord (around
3mm diameter)
Thread to match your fabric
Sewing kit, as before
MEASUREMENTS
Main fabric – four pieces: 30cm
x 30cm
Interfacing – two pieces: 30cm
x 30cm
Faux suede cord – two lengths:
each 50cm
1 Lay out two of your main fabric
squares right side down and lay an
interfacing square on top of each,
shiny side down. Following the
instructions for your particular
interfacing, press with a hot iron to
fuse the interfacing to the back of the
main fabric. These interfaced pieces
SUPERQUICKAND
EASYTOMAKE– HANDY
WHENYOUCAN’TFIND
THERIGHTBAGTOGO
WITHYOUR OUTFIT
Fold-overClutch
9 Lay one of your opened-out outer/
lining pairs out, right side up, and lay
the other right side down on top so
that the outers are together and so
are the lining pieces.
10 Pin all the way around the edges,
then sew with 1cm seam allowance,
leaving a 6cm gap on one of the
lining’s edges.
11 Trim across each of the corners
diagonally within the seam allowance
and close to the stitching to reduce
any excess seam bulk.
12 Turn your bag right side out
through the gap that you left. Sew
up the gap by machine (don’t worry,
it’ll be hidden inside the bag) or you
can sew by hand for a neater finish.
13 Tuck your lining down into your
outer – and don’t forget to remove
the pins holding the handles down.
14 Pin and top stitch around the upper
edge of the bag, about 3mm in from
the edge, to hold the layers together.
Adding a pocket:
Take your pocket piece and, in
a portrait position, fold it in half
vertically with right sides out. Press
the fold. Line up the raw (not folded)
shorter edges with the bottom of
your outer bag piece and tuck the
long vertical sides under the webbing,
re-pinning as needed to hold it in
place. Now repeat step 3 from the
previous page, sewing the webbing
in place and securing your pocket
at the same time.
YOU WILL NEED:
75cm medium-weight canvas fabric
50cm stiff, fusible interfacing
1m faux suede cord (around
3mm diameter)
Thread to match your fabric
Sewing kit, as before
MEASUREMENTS
Main fabric – four pieces: 30cm
x 30cm
Interfacing – two pieces: 30cm
x 30cm
Faux suede cord – two lengths:
each 50cm
1 Lay out two of your main fabric
squares right side down and lay an
interfacing square on top of each,
shiny side down. Following the
instructions for your particular
interfacing, press with a hot iron to
fuse the interfacing to the back of the
main fabric. These interfaced pieces