Murud – Harihareshwar - 52 km
Shortly after departing, a ferry operated across a river, making it a far shorter
day. From time to time, the way was narrow and uneven, but it remained a
pleasure to cycle. Monkeys playfully darted across the path and, in contrast to
cities, one could smell frangipani and sandalwood. From temples came the sweet
smell of incense and, occasionally, the lovely aroma of the good ’erb wafted
across the road. The coastal route is hilly, and I encountered a few hills.
Harihareshwar, a beachside temple town, came with a lively touristy trade. The
structures were, however, unimpressive for such a famous temple. The temple is
dedicated to Kalbhairav, a manifestation of Lord Shiva. Today the temple, built in
the 18th century, houses an ancient Shiva Linga adding to its popularity.
The staff at my abode seemed quite taken that a foreigner chose their hotel.
Looking out the window and straight into the neighbour’s water buffalo shed
didn't come as a surprise. All night one could hear buffalo stomping, snorting and
chewing the cud; a surprisingly soothing sound.
Harihareshwar – Harnai - 61 km
Breakfast was from a lady who needed to go into the backyard to do the dishes
and stoke the fire. She returned with an omelette and chapatti. Sometimes, even
having breakfast could be an adventure.
Four kilometres past Harihareshwar a ferry took people across the river to the
town of Vesavi. Then, a “push-up-the-hill” road led to a coastal path that soon
reached another ferry crossing. This time, it was a tiny boat and a mission to get
the bike and the panniers on board, but the ride saved a detour of nearly 40
kilometres via the busy main road.