Culture Shock! Austria - A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette

(Steven Felgate) #1
Enjoying the Culture 211

(somewhat like the Krampus) start by ringing bells attached
to their waist. They are dressed in a costume made from
corn leaves and wear masks with grotesque grimaces. Saint
Nicholas arrives with his retinue: two angels, one carrying
a bell and a lantern, and the other a basket of cookies and
fruit; a Lotter, the accordionist; and the Litterin, who begs for
alms from spectators. They walk from house to house and
will only cross the threshold of a house if they are welcome.
Saint Nicholas asks about the children’s behaviour over the
past year and distributes his gifts. In the meantime, the
Lotter plays a tune while the Litterin collects alms. Outside,
the Klaubäufe make a terrible commotion as they also want
to visit. Saint Nicholas decides whether or not to let them
in. In days gone by, the Klaubäufe would take the main table
and bring it outside to dance on; if the table was damaged,
it was a bad omen for the owner. Saint Nicholas is supposed
to have the ability to prevent bad things from happening and
to stop whatever raucousness may ensue.
Crib visiting in Tyrol is a tradition that became popular in
1223, when Saint Francis of Assisi had a crib set up in a cave
in Greccio forest to illustrate Christ’s incarnation. The crèche
(the tableau of Christ in his crib, with Mary, Joseph, the three
wise men and farm animals looking on) then became the
symbol of Christmas, rather than the Christmas tree as we
have come to know it.
Sculpted crèches became extremely popular during the
17th century Counter-Reformation in Tyrol. Some of the most
exquisite and ornate ones date from that period. Today, famous
sculptors create crèches that can be as large as a farmhouse
room. Sculptured crèches can be found in the villages of Zirl,
Rum, Götzens, and, above all, Thaus near Innsbruck.
Crèches can be viewed in Tyrol from 26 December until
15 January. Friends, acquaintances and strangers are
welcome to go through homes and view the crèches. A sign
reading Weihnachtskrippe welcomes them into the home.
Christmas Eve (Weihnachten) is traditionally the evening
when families get together, have a good meal, sing Christmas
carols and open presents around the Christmas tree. Many
Austrian children don’t believe in Santa Claus but in the Baby

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