Culture Shock! Bolivia - A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette

96 CultureShock! Bolivia

Paz Estenssoro to the presidency in 1952. But the politicians

would only manage to legitimise their populist postures by

enacting fundamental reforms.

These reforms cushioned a nouveau-riche sector of the

dominant class from the wrath that had emerged from

centuries of brutal exploitation. Ironically, a segment of the

Cholo class was again employed in its old role as enforcer.

A poorly conceived agrarian reform enfranchised the

indigenous populations. Nationalisation of the irreversibly

declining mineral industry enhanced political pride and

triggered the growth of a powerful labour movement, whose

traditional leaders were the miners. During certain periods,

labour was so strong that a system of co-gobierno allowed for

sharing of power between the government and the Bolivian

Labor Confederation ( COB), then under the leadership of

Juan Lechín.

Finding a National Identity

In the aftermath of the Revolution, most public facilities

were desegregated. Of course, one’s race was not objectively

measured. To a certain degree,

the level of economic affl uence

determined racial identity, as did

choice of dress between Cholos

and indigenous Bolivians.

Since the 1970s, a Latin

Americanist movement opened

the eyes of Bolivians of all classes

and ideologies to the beauty

of indigenous art and music.

Peñas, unpretentious night clubs

featuring national and indigenous music, sprung up

throughout Latin America. A dominant highlight in these

peña programmes was the typical Andean music, which

Westerners might remember from the Bolivian song, El

Cóndor Pasa, recorded by Paul Simon with great respect for

original harmonies and using Andean instruments.

Simultaneously, a democratic consciousness emerged,

with Bolivians weary of the abuse of military regimes.

In the years following the
revolution, Bolivia enhanced
its reputation as a beacon of
instability with a record-breaking
number of coup d’etats. So
accustomed to such events was
the populace that not far from tear
gas confrontations, old-timers
could be seen chatting leisurely
on benches on the La Paz
boulevard called El Prado.