138 CultureShock! Boliviaand nutritious foods for people of all budgets, and even the
makeshift meals you see on construction sites or in public
market stalls have something attractive to offer.Coffee or Tea?
Gourmet coffee lovers will not fi nd much in the way of rich,
savoury coffee in Bolivia. Freshly brewed decaf is hard to
come by so I bring my own coffee beans from abroad and
grind them here. An after lunch substitute for coffee is any of
the three mate (MAH-tay) teas: coca, manzanilla (camomile) or
aníse, all of which seem to have a positive effect on digestion
according to anecdotal evidence. Trimate (TREE-mah-tay) is
a brew combining these three herbs.DRINKING AND SOCIALISING
Customs of etiquette for dinner and social invitations have
been covered in Chapter Four, The Social Setting. Most
important is to not arrive ‘on time’ to a dinner invitation (at
least a half hour later than the indicated time) and to greet
each and every person in the room upon arrival and likewise
show the same respect upon leaving, as a collective ‘good-
bye’ is frowned upon.
Of special interest is how eating and drinking blend with
social interaction.
The simplest social occasion
in most of Bolivia is centred
around the salteña, the mildly
sweet and pungent meat/chicken
pastry with a juicy sauce inside
the doughy wrap. The usual
time to gather for salteñas is the
midmorning work break.
The salteña may also become the star of a birthday party,
especially for children. Around noon, parents pick up a large
batch of these tasty meat or chicken pies and this becomes
the lunch treat for the kids (with parents and family members
partaking as well.) Such an event is called a salteñada.
If the salteña occupies the morning break, tea or herbal
brews are the centre of the late afternoon break. TeatimeEmployees from offices,
labourers and neighbours will
show up at a stand or small
restaurant and sit or stand
around eating their salteña
while they get in a few minutes
of chatting.