Enjoying Bolivia 147
drinks fl ow freely, with beer and the fermented maize
drink, chicha or garapiña, the favourite brews in Oruro.
For children, Carnaval means great water fi ghts lasting
the whole week, with water fi lled balloons hurled at each
other and at passersby. An alternative weapon is the spray
can containing billowing white foam, an improvement
over the less effi cient pie-in-the-face routine.
My son’s fi rst orgy of water fi ghts was one of the
highlights of his childhood. But if you don’t like getting
wet or blasted with white foam, steer clear of children,
and especially watch out for men and women who are
reclaiming their adolescence. Male chivalry is forgotten
as women become more likely targets.
One of the most literal examples of culture shock
befell a US colleague, a young man who was clobbered
in the eye by a water balloon which evidently contained
ice. Even as his eye was blackening, he was locating the
pickup truck, Hardy Boy style, from which the deadly
balloon was hurled.
He entered the house where the truck was parked and
located the aggressor, who turned out to be about the
Two generations of Bolivian elite prepare to dance La Diablada in Oruro.