Enjoying Bolivia 153
18 November—Beni’s Departmental Anniversary. Bolivia’s
most carnivorous region celebrates with a cattle fair, bull
fi ghts and folk dancing.
December
8 December—Day of the Immaculate Conception. Typical
dances, food and drink in the towns around Santa Cruz,
with a more solemn version in Cochabamba.
24 December—La Navidad. Christmas is not a major
holiday in many indigenous communities. Best place to
enjoy the choral concerts and Christmas displays is in
La Paz. Don’t miss the performance of the Nova Chorus.
Most extensive celebrations in Tarija, lasting until the end
of January. Vallegrande, Che Guevara’s Waterloo, hosts
unusual Christmas festivities.
Fitting In To The Fiesta
If a passion for fairs and revelry moves you to travel to
Bolivia, consider the Department of Oruro, which exemplifi es
the Octavio Paz thesis; perhaps the most sombre region of
Bolivia is also the site of the longest and wildest festivals.
With the decline of mining, the fi esta has become Oruro’s
greatest industry.
Once you’ve attended a few fi estas it takes no analytical
skill to conclude that dancing is a favourite Bolivian pastime,
an activity that bridges the culture and age gap. What then
are the 10 most ‘friendly persuasions’ that will ease the
foreigner’s adjustment to Bolivia?
The Suitability Test
Should you have an affi nity for at least seven of the 10
pastimes in the following checklist, your adaptation to Bolivia
will be effortless. From four to six affi nities will mean a
moderate degree of effort in dealing with culture shock. Fewer
than four affi nities suggest a more trying adjustment period,
although I’ve met a few trekkers who fi nd total fulfi lment in
Bolivia when limited to affi nities (3), (6) and (7).
Football (Soccer): a universal language.
Dancing: another universal language.