Enjoying Bolivia 167of exotic trees and fl owers, and its views of various La Paz
proletarian neighbourhoods.
La Paz’s human and vehicle congestion and malignant
webs of tentacular electric and phone lines often provoke
in city boys like me, a thirst for peace, quietude and refuge.
The little known Jardín Botánico is the best refuge in La Paz,
Sundays or any other day.
All four quadrants have their serious ups and downs,
but the south-east quadrant wins the contest for the
roughest terrain.
Down in a deep gorge near the Choqueyapu is the Teatro
al Aire Libre (Open Air Theatre), where famous visiting
performers are expected to offer one show at moderate
cost for those who can’t afford to shell out 50 bucks at the
Hotel Radisson.
Jutting straight above the Teatro al Aire Libre is a towering
hill within a gorge, called Laikakota, an outdoor park for
children with a dramatic 360 degree view of La Paz. It is at
this bizarre outcrop where the Quipus Foundation’s cultural
centre and children’s museum is located.
‘Sunset Boulevard’ La Paz
Like Sunset Boulevard in Los Angeles, La Paz’s main avenue
cuts through the whole city changing its personality along
the way.
Walking from north-west to south-east where the main
avenue is called Montes, you’ll fi nd the main bus terminal
a block to the left. Down a few blocks is the San Francisco
Church, whose construction began in 1549. After a heavy
snowfall caused the collapse of the original structure, San
Francisco’s reconstruction was completed in 1753. The art
work on this Basilica’s stone-sculpted façade represents the
intervention of indigenous customs on Spanish baroque
models. The Spaniards, not desirous of getting their hands
dirtied, sent the Indians up the scaffolds. Once alone above,
the native craftsmen were free to add their own motifs.
On Calle Sagárnaga, across from the south façade of
the San Francisco Church, the Peña El Parnaso puts on an
animated show of folk music and dance.